Archery form step by step: stance, nock, draw, anchor, release and follow-through
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Good archery is not about strength or a perfect eye. It is about doing the same thing, the same way, every single shot. Coaches break that shot into a sequence of steps so you can build it slowly and check each part. Names and details vary between coaches and styles, but the order below is common to most recurve and barebow teaching. Compound and longbow archers follow a similar outline with their own differences.
Learn this with a coach watching. Small faults are hard to feel yourself, and an experienced eye will save you months.
1. Stance
Stand astride the shooting line, side-on to the target, feet roughly shoulder-width apart, weight even across both feet. Many beginners start with a square stance, toes on a line pointing at the target. Some coaches later move people to a slightly open stance, with the front foot drawn back a little. Whichever you use, put your feet in the same place every time; some archers mark the spot.
Stand tall. Do not lean back towards the target or away from it.
2. Nock
With the bow pointing down-range and towards the ground, clip the arrow onto the string at the nocking point, the marker your club has fitted. The odd-coloured vane, the index vane, usually faces away from the bow on a recurve. You should hear or feel a small click. Rest the shaft on the arrow rest.
Never nock an arrow unless you are on the shooting line and shooting has been called.
3. Set the hands
- String hand: on a recurve with a finger tab, the most common grip is one finger above the arrow and two below. Hook the string in the first crease of the fingers, keeping the back of the hand relaxed.
- Bow hand: push into the grip with the pad at the base of the thumb, knuckles roughly at 45 degrees. Do not squeeze the handle; a relaxed hand lets the bow react the same way each time. A finger or wrist sling stops the bow falling after release.
4. Pre-draw and raise
Turn your head to look at the target, then raise the bow arm and drawing arm together, with the bow arm shoulder kept low. Many coaches teach a short pre-draw here, bringing the string back a little to set the shoulders before the main pull.
5. Draw
Draw the string back by using the muscles of your back, moving the drawing elbow round behind you, rather than pulling with the bicep. The drawing forearm should end up roughly in line with the arrow. A light bow makes this much easier to learn; if you are shaking, the bow is too heavy for you right now.
6. Anchor
Bring the string hand to the same place on your face every shot. For an Olympic-style recurve that is usually under the jaw, with the string touching the centre of the chin and nose. Barebow archers often anchor at the corner of the mouth. Your anchor is your rear sight, so consistency matters more than the exact spot.
7. Aim and transfer
Settle the sight pin, or for barebow the arrow point, on the target. At the same time, keep the back muscles working so the shot keeps building rather than going static. Many archers use a clicker on a recurve to show when they have reached full draw.
8. Release
Relax the string fingers and let the string leave them, while the back keeps moving. Do not open the hand or pluck the string sideways. A good release often feels like a surprise.
9. Follow-through
Hold your position until the arrow hits the target. The drawing hand typically slides back along the neck, and the bow arm stays up and pointing at the target. Dropping the bow arm to see where the arrow went is one of the most common beginner faults.
Practising sensibly
- Start close to the target so you can focus on form, not scores.
- Shoot fewer arrows well rather than many arrows badly.
- Video yourself from the side and from behind, with permission from your range.
- A stretch band is useful for practising the draw at home without a bow.
Which step gives you most trouble? Post your questions or the drill that fixed your release in the comments.