Choosing your first bow: draw weight, draw length and arrow spine explained
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Buying your first bow is exciting, and it is also where many new archers make an expensive mistake: a bow that is too heavy, arrows that do not match it, or a setup that fights their form. This guide explains the three numbers that matter most and why nearly every coach tells beginners to start light. It applies mainly to recurve and barebow; compound bows are adjustable in different ways and are best set up in person.
Before you buy anything, finish a beginners' course and shoot club equipment for a while. Ask your coach to watch you shoot and help you choose.
Draw length
Draw length is how far you pull the string back at full draw. It depends on your arm span and your form, not your height alone. It matters for two reasons:
- The draw weight you feel depends on how far you draw.
- Your arrows must be long enough to stay safely on the rest at full draw, with some margin in front.
A coach can measure your draw length at the club, usually by having you draw a long, marked arrow on a very light bow. Your draw length often changes in the first months as your form settles, which is another reason not to buy too early.
Draw weight
Draw weight is the force needed to hold the bow at full draw, usually stated in pounds. On a recurve the number on the limbs is measured at a standard draw length, commonly 28 inches. If your draw is longer, you will hold more than the number on the limbs; if it is shorter, less.
Why start light
Almost every beginner wants a heavier bow sooner than they should. Starting light is better because:
- Form comes first. You cannot learn a clean draw, anchor and release while you are fighting the bow.
- Injury risk. Shoulders and elbows take the strain. Overbowing is a common cause of shoulder problems in archery.
- Volume. Improvement comes from shooting lots of arrows well. A light bow lets you shoot more in a session.
- You can always go up. Many recurve and barebow bows use a takedown design where the limbs detach from the riser, so you can buy new limbs as you get stronger and keep the rest.
A good test: you should be able to draw, hold steadily at anchor for several seconds and let down under control, repeatedly, without shaking. If not, it is too heavy. Your coach will suggest a sensible starting range for you.
Arrow spine
Spine is how stiff an arrow is, and it is the number beginners most often ignore. When you release, the arrow flexes as it leaves the bow. If it is too stiff or too weak for your draw weight and length, it will not fly straight, and no amount of good form will fix it.
Spine depends on:
- your actual draw weight at your draw length
- the arrow length
- the point weight
Arrow makers publish spine charts that match these together. Use the chart for the specific shaft you are considering, and ask your coach or a knowledgeable club member to check it. When you move up in draw weight, you will usually need stiffer arrows too.
Other parts of a first setup
- Riser: the handle. A simple, solid one is plenty to start with.
- Arrow rest and plunger: support the arrow and help tune its flight.
- Sight (unless you shoot barebow), finger tab, arm guard, string and bow stand.
- Bow sling, so you can keep a relaxed bow hand.
Buying sensibly
- Many clubs have beginners' kit to rent or to buy second-hand from members who have moved up.
- Buy from people who will check the fit and let you try before you commit.
- Avoid unbranded bundles bought only on price; mismatched arrows are common in them.
- Never dry-fire a bow you are trying out, and never shoot one that looks cracked or twisted.
What did you start on, and what would you change? Share your first setup and questions in the comments.