How to dress well on a budget: fit, wardrobe basics and making clothes last

TUREFF• •0

Looking well dressed has surprisingly little to do with how much you spend. A cheap shirt that fits beats an expensive one that hangs off you. The real secrets are fit, a few versatile basics, and looking after what you own so it keeps looking good.

Fit comes first

Most men buy clothes a size too big. A few quick checks:

Shoulders. The shoulder seam of a shirt, T-shirt or jacket should sit at the edge of your shoulder, not halfway down your arm.
Shirt body. You should be able to move comfortably without the fabric billowing at the waist or the buttons pulling.
Sleeves. Shirt cuffs should reach roughly the base of your thumb. T-shirt sleeves should sit around the middle of the upper arm.
Trousers and jeans. They should sit at the waist without a belt doing all the work, and the leg should not pool in heaps around your shoes.
Length. A T-shirt or casual shirt worn untucked should end around the middle of the zip on your trousers.

Use a tailor or alterations shop

Small alterations are often cheap and transform how clothes look:

Shortening trousers is one of the most worthwhile jobs.
Taking in a shirt at the sides gives a sharper shape.
Shortening sleeves on a jacket or coat.

Shoulders are hard and expensive to alter, so get those right when you buy and let the alterations shop handle the rest.

Build on simple basics

You do not need a lot, just things that work together. Neutral colours such as navy, grey, white, black, olive and brown mix easily.

Plain T-shirts in a few neutral colours
One or two casual shirts, such as an Oxford cloth shirt
Dark, straight or slim jeans without heavy distressing
Chinos in navy or stone
A knitted jumper you can wear over a shirt
A versatile jacket for your climate
Clean, simple trainers and one pair of smarter shoes

Add colour and pattern once the basics are covered.

Where to find value

Shop the sales, but only for things already on your list.
Charity shops and second-hand apps can turn up good quality wool, leather and denim for little money. Check seams, zips and armpits before buying.
Look at fabric, not just labels. Check the composition tag and feel the material. Thin, loosely woven fabric will not last, whatever it costs.
Cost per wear. A jacket worn three times a week for years can be better value than three cheap ones that fall apart.
Try before you buy, or know a brand's sizing well if shopping online, to avoid returns.

Make clothes last longer

Care matters as much as buying:

Read the care label and follow it.
Wash less often where hygiene allows. Jeans and jumpers rarely need washing after every wear.
Wash at lower temperatures and turn dark clothes inside out to slow fading.
Air dry where you can. Tumble drying is hard on fabric and can shrink cotton.
Hang shirts and jackets on decent hangers. Fold knitwear, which stretches when hung.
Polish and rotate shoes, and use shoe trees or stuff them with paper so they keep their shape.
Deal with small damage quickly. Sewing back a button or fixing a loose hem takes minutes and saves the item.
Use a fabric shaver or lint roller to remove bobbles and fluff from jumpers.

Small details that lift everything

Shoes clean and in good condition. People notice.
Ironed or at least smoothed shirts. Hanging a shirt in the bathroom while you shower helps.
A belt that matches your shoes in a smart outfit.
Socks without holes, and in a colour that suits the trousers.

What is the best-value piece of clothing you own? Share your tips in the comments.