Chicken coop and run basics: space, perches, nest boxes and predators

Space

• Hens need room to move, stretch their wings and get away from each other. Overcrowding leads to bullying, feather pecking and disease.
• Ready-made coops are often advertised for more hens than will comfortably fit. Treat the maker's number as a maximum, not a target.
• The run matters as much as the coop. Hens spend most of their waking hours outside, and a small run turns to mud quickly.
• Plan for bad weather. During bird flu housing measures, birds may need to be kept under cover, so a covered run is worth considering from the start.

Perches

• Use wide, flat or rounded perches rather than thin dowel, so hens can rest their feet comfortably and cover their toes in cold weather.
• Allow enough perch length for every bird to sit side by side.
• Put perches higher than the nest boxes, or hens will sleep in the nests and soil them.
• Make perches removable for cleaning.

Nest boxes

• Hens share nest boxes happily. A common rule of thumb is one box for every few hens.
• Place boxes in a dim, quiet part of the coop, lower than the perches.
• Line them with clean straw or shavings, and change it when soiled.
• Being able to collect eggs from outside the coop through a hinged lid makes daily collection easier.

Ventilation

• Hens breathe out a lot of moisture, and droppings release ammonia. Without airflow, the coop becomes damp and smelly, which harms their respiratory health.
• Put ventilation high up, above the perches, so air moves without blowing a draught on sleeping birds.
• Cover vents with strong mesh so they do not become an entry point for predators.
• In hot weather, add shade to the run and check the coop does not overheat.

Predator-proofing

• Mesh: use strong welded mesh rather than chicken wire, which keeps hens in but does not keep determined predators out.
• Digging: bury mesh or lay an apron of mesh along the base of the run so animals cannot dig under.
• Roof: cover the run with mesh or a solid roof if foxes can climb in or birds of prey are a problem.
• Doors: use secure locks that a fox or raccoon cannot nose open. Shut the hens in at dusk every night, or use an automatic door you check regularly.
• Rats: keep feed in metal bins with lids, and remove spilt feed. Rats take eggs and chicks and spread disease.

Floors, bedding and cleaning

• Use absorbent bedding such as wood shavings or straw in the coop, and change it regularly.
• Removable droppings trays under perches make daily cleaning quick.
• Clean and disinfect the coop thoroughly at intervals, paying attention to cracks and perch ends where red mite hides.
• In the run, use bark chips or similar to keep the ground from turning to mud, and rake or replace it.

Food, water and dust baths

• Raise feeders and drinkers off the floor to keep them clean.
• Keep feeders under cover so wild birds and rain cannot get at them; wild birds can carry disease.
• Hens clean themselves by dust bathing. Provide a dry, sheltered spot with loose soil or a dust bath box.

Before the hens move in