How to choose ballet shoes: leather or canvas, full or split sole, and when pointe starts

TUREFF• •0

Ballet slippers look simple, but the choice of material, sole and fit makes a real difference to how your feet work in class. Here is how to choose your first pair, and a realistic look at pointe shoes, which come much later and only on a teacher's say-so. Before buying anything, check whether your studio asks for a particular style or colour. Many do.

Soft ballet shoes (slippers)

These are the shoes for everyday class. They come in two main materials and two kinds of sole.

Leather or canvas

Leather is generally more durable and supportive, and moulds to your foot over time. It can feel stiffer at first.
Canvas is lighter, more breathable and often washable. It usually needs little breaking in and shows off the shape of the foot.
Satin slippers exist, but they are mainly for performances rather than daily class.

Neither material is right or wrong. Many beginners start in leather for durability and try canvas later.

Full sole or split sole

Full sole: one continuous sole from heel to toe. It gives more resistance as you point your foot, which helps build foot strength. It is the usual recommendation for beginners of any age.
Split sole: two separate pads, one under the ball of the foot and one under the heel. With nothing under the arch, it is easier to point and shows the line of the foot more clearly. It is commonly worn by more experienced dancers.

If your teacher prefers one or the other, follow them.

How they should fit

Snug, like a second skin. No room for your toes to slide forwards, but nothing curled or pinched.
No baggy material at the toe or heel when you point your foot.
Do not buy room to grow into. Loose shoes make the foot work incorrectly and can cause slips. This applies to children too.
Sizing varies between makers and is often different from your street shoe size, so try shoes on, or use the maker's own size chart, if you can.

Elastics and drawstrings

Most slippers come with elastic straps that you sew on yourself, either as one strap or two crossed straps per shoe. Try the shoe on with your foot pointed to find the right position before sewing. Tuck the drawstring ends in after tightening, and avoid pulling the drawstring so tight that the shoe bunches.

Pointe shoes: when do dancers start?

Pointe shoes have a stiff box and shank that allow dancing on the tips of the toes. They need strong feet, ankles and core, and good technique, and there is no shortcut to them.

It is the teacher's decision. Teachers look at strength, alignment, control, how long and how often a student has trained, and physical development. Age alone is not the deciding factor.
For children, the long bones of the foot are still developing, which is one reason teachers do not rush pointe. Many students start around the age of 11 or 12, after several years of regular classes, but there is no fixed age.
For adults, pointe is possible for some, usually after years of consistent training several times a week and with a teacher's approval and supervision. Many adult dancers enjoy ballet for life without ever wearing pointe shoes.

If you are cleared for pointe

Have your first pair professionally fitted. Pointe shoes vary greatly between makers and models, and a poor fit can injure.
Show the shoes to your teacher before sewing ribbons or dancing in them.
Start with short sessions at the barre, under supervision.

Looking after your shoes

Let them air out after class rather than leaving them in a closed bag.
Replace slippers when the sole wears through or they stretch out of shape.
Wash canvas only if the maker says you can.

Which shoes do you dance in, and how did you find your fit? Share tips or ask about sizing in the comments.