Candle making for beginners: equipment, wax types and your first container candle
TUREFF• •0
Candle making is a satisfying hobby that needs little space and only basic equipment. Container candles, poured into a jar or tin, are the easiest place to start: they need no mould and are forgiving. This guide covers the equipment, the main wax types and the steps for a first batch.
Safety before you start
Wax is a fuel. Treat melting it like cooking with hot oil.
- Never heat wax over a direct flame or leave it unattended. Use a double boiler or a melting pot in a pan of water, or an appliance made for melting wax.
- Use a thermometer and stay well below the flash point given by your wax supplier.
- Never throw water on burning wax. Turn off the heat and, only if it is safe, smother it with a lid. If in doubt, get everyone out and call the fire service.
- Keep children and pets out of the area, and work on a clear, stable surface.
Equipment
- a pouring jug or melting pitcher, and a pan to use as a double boiler
- a thermometer
- digital scales (wax and fragrance are measured by weight)
- heat-safe containers made for candles, without cracks or chips
- wicks suited to your wax and container width
- a way to fix the wick to the base (wick stickers or a dab of glue) and to hold it upright while the wax sets (a clothes peg or wick holder)
- fragrance oil made for candles and dye, both optional
- a spoon or spatula for stirring, and paper or a tray to catch spills
Keep your candle tools separate from kitchen utensils.
Wax types
- Soy wax: a plant-based wax popular for container candles. It has a fairly low melting point and is easy to clean up, but it can develop frosting (a white bloom) and sometimes an uneven surface.
- Paraffin wax: made from petroleum. It often gives a strong scent throw and a smooth finish, and comes in grades for containers, pillars and moulds.
- Beeswax: natural, with its own honey scent and a high melting point. It burns slowly, is often used for pillars and dipped candles, and usually needs a larger wick.
- Coconut and blended waxes: many suppliers sell blends of coconut, soy, rapeseed or paraffin designed to give a creamy look and a good burn.
Container waxes and pillar waxes are different products; buy one meant for what you are making. Each comes with supplier guidance on heating, fragrance and pouring temperatures, and following it saves a lot of trial and error.
Step by step: a first container candle
- Measure the wax. A rough method is to fill your container with wax flakes twice, or weigh the volume of water it holds and adjust for the wax's density. Weigh it on scales.
- Fix the wick to the centre of the base and hold it upright.
- Melt the wax in the double boiler, stirring gently and watching the thermometer.
- Add fragrance and dye, if using, at the temperature your supplier recommends, and stir gently but thoroughly for a couple of minutes so it binds with the wax.
- Let it cool to the pouring temperature your wax recommends.
- Pour slowly into the container, keeping the wick centred.
- Leave it to set at room temperature, away from draughts. Do not put it in the fridge; fast cooling causes cracks and sinkholes.
- Trim the wick to around a quarter of an inch (about 6 mm) once set.
- Let it cure before burning. Many waxes, especially soy, smell stronger after curing for some days.
Your first test burn
Burn the candle long enough on the first light for the melted pool to reach the edges of the container, and watch how the flame behaves. A test burn tells you whether the wick suits the container, and is worth doing before you give candles away.
Keep notes
Write down the wax, wick, container, fragrance amount and temperatures for every batch. When a candle burns beautifully, you will know how to make it again.
What did you make first, and what went wrong or right? Share your experiences and questions in the comments.