How to choose climbing shoes: fit, closures, downturn and rubber

TUREFF• •0

After a few months of renting, most climbers buy their own shoes, and walking into a shop can be bewildering. There are flat shoes and banana-shaped ones, laces and velcro, stiff and soft. The right first pair is much less extreme than many people expect, and fit matters more than any feature.

Fit comes first

Climbing shoes are meant to be snug, but snug is not the same as agony.

Your toes should touch the end and be slightly curled, not crushed.
There should be no dead space, especially at the heel and around the toes. A gap at the heel means the shoe will slide off on heel hooks.
The shoe should feel tight all round but not pinch or press a sharp point anywhere.
You should be able to wear them for a whole climb, and ideally a short session, without needing to rip them off.

Try shoes on in the afternoon, when feet are slightly larger, and on both feet; most people have one bigger foot. Stand on a small edge in the shop if there is one. Sizes vary between makers, so ignore the number on the box and go by feel.

Closures

Velcro (straps): quick on and off, popular in bouldering where you remove shoes between climbs.
Laces: the most adjustable fit along the whole foot, good for longer routes and for awkward foot shapes.
Slippers: no closure, very sensitive and comfortable once broken in, but less supportive.

None is better in general; pick what fits your feet and your habit.

Downturn and asymmetry

Flat (neutral) shoes: the toe is in line with the sole. Comfortable, good for beginners, slabs and long routes.
Moderate downturn: a slight curve, a good all-round choice once your footwork improves.
Aggressive downturn: a strong curve that puts power on the big toe for steep overhangs and small footholds. Less comfortable and not much help on slabs.

Asymmetric shoes curve towards the big toe to focus power there. For a first pair, a flat or moderately downturned, mildly asymmetric shoe is the usual advice. Aggressive shoes do not make up for imprecise footwork.

Stiffness and rubber

Stiffer shoes support your foot on small edges and suit beginners, whose foot muscles are still developing.
Softer shoes let you feel the hold and smear well, but ask more of your feet.
Rubber differs in stickiness and durability. Thicker soles last longer and give support; thinner soles are more sensitive but wear quickly. A durable sole is a sensible choice for a first pair, which will be scuffed by learning feet.

Breaking them in

Leather uppers stretch noticeably, especially unlined leather, so buy them tighter.
Synthetic uppers stretch little, so what you feel in the shop is close to what you get.
Wear new shoes for short sessions and take them off between climbs.
Some people wear them around the house or in a warm shower to speed things up, but there is no need to force it.

If a shoe is painful after a few sessions in a way that is not easing, it is probably the wrong shape for your foot.

Looking after them and resoling

Let them air out after each session and keep them out of a hot car.
Wipe the rubber with a damp cloth to restore grip.
Learn to place your feet precisely; dragging toes wears out shoes fast.

When the rubber at the toe gets thin, many shoes can be resoled by a specialist. The key is to send them before the rand is worn through: the rand is the rubber wrapping the toe above the sole. Once it is damaged, the repair is bigger, and a hole through to your toes may mean the shoe cannot be saved. Watch the line between sole and rand near the big toe; when it starts to dip, it is time. What was your first pair of shoes like, and would you buy them again? Share questions and recommendations on fit in the comments.