How to use a drill driver safely: bits, clutch settings, studs and wall plugs

Know the controls

• Chuck: the front part that grips the bit. Most cordless drills have a keyless chuck you tighten by hand. Tighten it firmly and check the bit is centred.
• Clutch collar: the numbered ring behind the chuck. It sets how much twisting force the drill applies before it slips. Low numbers for small screws and soft materials, higher numbers for larger screws. The drill bit symbol at the end disables the clutch for drilling.
• Speed selector: usually a switch on top. Speed 1 is slow with more torque, for driving screws. Speed 2 is fast, for drilling holes.
• Forward and reverse switch: above the trigger. It also acts as a lock in the middle position; use it whenever you change bits or put the drill down.
• Variable trigger: squeeze gently to start slowly.

Choosing the right bit

• Wood bits have a sharp centre point that stops the bit wandering.
• Masonry bits have a wide, flattened tungsten tip, for brick, block and concrete.
• Metal (HSS) bits have a plain pointed tip and can also drill wood and plastic.
• Tile bits have a spear-shaped tip for ceramic and glazed tiles.
• Screwdriver bits must match the screw: Phillips and Pozidriv look alike but are not the same, and using the wrong one chews up the head.

Before you drill into a wall

1. Check for cables and pipes. Use a detector, and remember that no detector is perfect. Cables commonly run straight up or down from sockets and switches, and horizontally from them; avoid drilling in line with electrical fittings.
2. Find the wall type. Knock on it. A hollow sound suggests plasterboard on a timber or metal frame; a dull, solid sound suggests masonry.
3. Locate studs in a stud wall with a detector, or by tapping and testing with a small pilot hole in a spot that will be hidden. A screw into a stud holds far more weight than a fixing in plasterboard alone.
4. Mark your position with a pencil and use a spirit level to line up multiple holes.

Drilling and fixing

• Start slowly so the bit does not skate, then increase speed.
• Hold the drill straight, at right angles to the surface, and let the bit do the work rather than pushing hard.
• For masonry, choose a wall plug sized for the screw, then use the bit size the plug packet specifies. Drill slightly deeper than the plug's length, clear the dust, and tap the plug in flush.
• For plasterboard without a stud behind it, use cavity fixings designed for plasterboard, and check the weight they are rated for.
• To avoid splitting wood near an edge, drill a pilot hole slightly narrower than the screw first.
• Put masking tape over the spot when drilling tiles; it helps stop the bit sliding. Do not use hammer action on tiles.

Driving screws

• Set the clutch low and increase it a step at a time until the screw sits flush without the drill slipping.
• Use speed 1 and press firmly in line with the screw so the bit does not cam out.
• Stop as soon as the head is flush. Overtightening strips threads and crushes wall plugs.

Safety gear and habits

• Safety glasses every time. Dust and chips go straight towards your eyes.
• A dust mask for drilling plaster, masonry or MDF.
• Ear defenders for long sessions or hammer drilling.
• No loose sleeves, jewellery or gloves near the chuck; a spinning bit can catch fabric.
• Clamp small pieces of work rather than holding them in your hand.
• Remove the battery before changing bits or when you stop.
• Hold the drill firmly with both hands when drilling larger holes; if the bit jams, the drill body can twist suddenly.
• Let a hot bit cool before touching it.

Looking after it