Basic embroidery stitches: backstitch, stem, chain, satin and French knot

TUREFF• •0

Most embroidery designs, however elaborate they look, are built from a small group of basic stitches. Learn these seven and you can work outlines, curves, fills, dots and petals. Practise each one on a scrap of fabric in a hoop before using it in a project.

Backstitch

A simple, solid line. It is ideal for outlines and lettering.

Bring the needle up one stitch length along the line from the start.
Take it back down at the start.
Bring it up one stitch length ahead of the first stitch, then down into the end of the previous stitch.
Repeat, keeping the stitches the same length.

Use shorter stitches around tight curves so they follow the line smoothly.

Stem stitch

A slightly twisted, rope-like line, good for stems, flowing outlines and curves.

Bring the needle up at the start of the line.
Go down one stitch length along the line and come back up halfway along that stitch, keeping the thread below (or always to the same side of) the needle.
Continue, each stitch overlapping half the previous one.

Keep the thread on the same side throughout, or the twist changes direction.

Split stitch

A textured line and a good base for padded satin stitch.

Make one straight stitch along the line.
Bring the needle up through the middle of that stitch, splitting the strands.
Go down one stitch length ahead, and repeat.

It works best with an even number of strands so the split is centred.

Chain stitch

A line of linked loops, decorative for outlines and borders and also usable as a filling in rows.

Bring the needle up at the start.
Go back down in the same hole, or right next to it, and come up a stitch length along the line, with the loop of thread under the needle tip.
Pull through gently to form the first loop.
Go down inside that loop, next to where the thread emerged, and repeat.
Finish with a small stitch over the last loop to anchor it.

Satin stitch

Smooth, flat stitches laid side by side to fill a shape.

Bring the needle up on one edge of the shape and down on the opposite edge.
Bring it up again right next to where it started and lay the next stitch parallel.
Keep the stitches close together and the edges crisp.

Tips: outline the shape first in split stitch or backstitch and stitch over it for a raised, cleaner edge. Keep satin stitches fairly short; over a large area, long stitches snag and sag, so split the shape or use long-and-short stitch instead.

French knot

A small raised dot, used for flower centres, eyes, texture and dotting an i.

Bring the needle up where the knot should be.
Hold the thread taut with your other hand and wrap it around the needle once or twice.
Keeping the thread taut, put the needle back down very close to, but not in, the hole it came out of.
Slide the wraps down to the fabric and pull the needle through slowly while still holding the thread.

Most failed knots come from letting the thread go slack. For a bigger knot, use more strands rather than more wraps.

Lazy daisy (detached chain)

A single loop held by a small stitch, perfect for petals and leaves.

Bring the needle up at the base of the petal.
Go down in the same spot and come up at the tip of the petal, with the loop under the needle.
Pull through to form the loop, then make a tiny stitch over the tip to hold it.

Work five or six around a centre for a simple flower, and finish the centre with French knots.

Practising

Make a stitch sampler: one row of each stitch on a single piece of fabric, labelled lightly in pencil. It becomes a reference you will use for years.
Try each stitch with different numbers of strands to see how the look changes.
Work slowly at first; even spacing comes before speed.

Which stitch do you find hardest? Share your sampler, or ask about a stitch that will not behave, in the comments.