How to wear hanbok correctly: tying the goreum, layering and common mistakes
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Putting on hanbok for the first time is easier than it looks, but a few details make the difference between looking dressed and looking assembled in a hurry. This guide walks through the order of layers and the one knot everyone worries about, the goreum.
Women's hanbok: the order
- Underlayers first. Put on the underskirt or petticoat that comes with the outfit. It gives the chima its shape. Skipping it is the most common reason a skirt looks limp or clings to the legs.
- The chima (skirt). Wrap it around from the front so the opening sits at the back, slightly to one side. The waistband sits high, at or just above the chest, not at the natural waist. Tie the straps firmly; they should not slide down as you walk.
- The jeogori (jacket). Put your arms in, then cross the right panel under and the left panel over, so the left side ends up on top. The fold should run from your left shoulder down towards your right side.
- Tie the goreum (see below).
- Outer layers and accessories: a durumagi for cold weather, a norigae on the ribbon or skirt band if you have one.
Men's hanbok: the order
- Baji (trousers). They are very wide at the waist. Fold the extra fabric across in front, then tie the waistband or sash firmly. If the outfit includes ankle ties, wrap the trouser cuffs around the ankle and tie them neatly at the inside.
- Jeogori. As with women's hanbok, the left panel goes over the right.
- Tie the goreum, then add a vest or short jacket if the set has one.
- Durumagi last, also closed left over right and tied.
Tying the goreum
The goreum is a pair of ribbons, one long and one short, sewn to the two front panels of the jeogori. The finished knot is not a symmetrical shoelace bow: it is a small, flat knot with a single loop pointing out to one side and the two tails hanging down.
The general method:
- Cross the long ribbon over the short one and pull it up through, as if starting an ordinary knot. Pull it snug against the jacket.
- Fold the short ribbon into a loop.
- Wrap the long ribbon down and around the loop and push it through the gap behind, so the knot closes over the base of the loop.
- Pull gently and adjust until the knot is compact, the loop is a neat size and the long tail falls straight down.
There are small differences between how individual makers and families tie it, and written steps only go so far. It takes most people several attempts, so practise in front of a mirror before a special occasion, or ask the rental staff or an older relative to show you once; seeing it done is the quickest way to learn.
Common mistakes
- Crossing the jacket the wrong way. The left panel goes over the right for the living. The reverse is associated with dressing the dead, so this is the one rule worth remembering.
- Wearing the skirt at the waist. A women's chima is meant to sit high. At the waist it looks too long and the proportions go wrong.
- Forgetting the underlayer. The silhouette depends on it.
- A huge, floppy bow. Keep the goreum knot compact with a single loop.
- Trainers under a full traditional outfit. Fine for comfort in daily wear, but for photos or a formal occasion, gomusin or simple flat shoes look better.
- Rushing the collar. The white dongjeong should sit flat and even around the neck. Tug the jacket straight at the back if it rides up.
Walking and sitting
- Hold the front of a long chima slightly when climbing stairs.
- Sit with the skirt gathered under you rather than spread out, or it will crease.
- Keep a durumagi tied closed when you wear it.
If you are renting, staff usually dress you or check the result. If you own one, a mirror and some patience are all you need.
What part of putting on hanbok gave you trouble? Ask in the comments and others who have done it can help.