Japan in summer: rainy season, heat, fireworks, Gion Matsuri and Obon crowds
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Summer in Japan means festivals, fireworks over rivers, cold noodles and lantern-lit evenings. It also means a rainy season, fierce heat and some of the busiest travel days of the year. With a little planning it is a wonderful time to visit.
Tsuyu: the rainy season
Tsuyu (梅雨) is Japan's early-summer rainy season. In Okinawa it typically runs from May into June. In most of Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu it usually lasts from early June to the middle or end of July. Hokkaido largely escapes it. The Japan Meteorological Agency announces the start and end for each region, and the timing varies each year.
Tsuyu means frequent grey, drizzly days rather than nonstop storms, though heavy downpours do happen, especially in Kyushu.
- Hydrangeas bloom in this season, and places famous for them, such as Kamakura's temples and the line of the Hakone Tozan Railway, are at their best.
- Plan museums, aquariums, department stores and food halls for the wettest days.
- Convenience stores sell cheap umbrellas everywhere.
Heat safety
After tsuyu ends, July and August are hot and very humid, with highs often in the mid thirties in Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka. Heatstroke is a real risk for visitors who walk all day.
- The government issues heatstroke alerts for areas forecast to be dangerously hot. Check the weather app or news, and take the warning seriously.
- Drink water and sports drinks regularly; vending machines are everywhere.
- Sightsee early and late. Kyoto's temples are much more pleasant at opening time.
- Use the shade of shopping arcades and underground passages.
- Cooling towels, handheld fans and parasols are widely sold and widely used.
Typhoons
Typhoons can hit from summer into early autumn, most often in August and September. They can cancel flights, ferries and some trains for a day or two. Okinawa and southern Japan are most exposed. Keep a buffer day before any international flight.
Fireworks festivals
Hanabi taikai (花火大会) are the heart of a Japanese summer. Large displays are held over rivers, bays and lakes, with food stalls and people in yukata. Tokyo's Sumida River fireworks are among the most famous, and there are big shows across the country.
- Crowds are enormous. Arrive hours early for a spot, or buy reserved seating where it is sold.
- Leaving afterwards takes a long time; stations control entry.
- Dates are announced each spring and can change or be cancelled for bad weather.
Gion Matsuri
Kyoto's Gion Matsuri runs through the whole of July and is one of Japan's most famous festivals. The highlights are the Yamaboko Junko processions of huge decorated floats, held on 17 July and 24 July, and the evenings before each procession, when the streets fill with stalls and the floats are lit up. Hotels in Kyoto book up far ahead for these dates.
Obon travel crowds
Obon, the festival of the ancestors, falls in mid-August in most of Japan. Many people return to their home towns, so shinkansen, flights and expressways are packed in both directions for several days. Book reserved seats early or avoid travelling on the peak days. Bon odori dances are held in towns and neighbourhoods, and visitors are often welcome to join in.
Climbing Mount Fuji
The official climbing season for Mount Fuji is in summer, roughly July to early September. Our guide to visiting Mount Fuji covers the season, trails, rules and fees.
Food for the heat
Try hiyashi chuka (cold ramen), zaru soba, somen, and kakigori (shaved ice). Beer gardens open on department store rooftops in summer.
What to pack
- Light, breathable clothing and a spare shirt
- A compact umbrella and a parasol or hat
- Comfortable shoes that cope with rain
- Sunscreen and a refillable water bottle
- A small towel, which Japanese people carry in summer
- A thin layer for air-conditioned trains
Have you caught a fireworks festival or survived August in Kyoto? Share your tips or ask about your dates in the comments.