Hokkaido travel guide: Sapporo, Otaru, Furano, Hakodate and winter tips

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Hokkaido, Japan's northernmost main island, feels different from the rest of the country: wider roads, open farmland, cooler summers and some of the best snow in the world. It is big, so plan your trip around a few bases rather than trying to see everything.

Getting there and around

  • Most visitors fly into New Chitose Airport, which has a train link to Sapporo of around 40 minutes.
  • The Hokkaido Shinkansen runs from Tokyo to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto, near Hakodate. Beyond that, limited express trains connect the main cities.
  • Distances are long. JR trains and highway buses cover the cities well; the countryside is much easier by car.
  • Regional rail passes exist; compare their price with the trips you actually plan.

Sapporo

Hokkaido's capital is a modern, grid-planned city and a natural first base.
  • Odori Park runs through the centre and hosts festivals through the year.
  • Susukino is the nightlife and food district; try miso ramen, Sapporo's speciality, and jingisukan, grilled lamb.
  • The Sapporo Beer Museum and the views from Mt Moiwa are classic stops.
  • Nijo Market is good for seafood breakfasts: crab, sea urchin and salmon roe bowls.

Otaru

A short train ride from Sapporo, Otaru is a former trading port with a canal lined by old stone warehouses, glassware shops and music box stores. It makes an easy half-day or day trip, and the canal is pretty at dusk, especially in winter.

Furano and Biei

Central Hokkaido is the place for summer landscapes.
  • Furano is famous for its lavender. Tourism guides put the peak at mid to late July, with some varieties lasting into early August before harvest. Farm Tomita's striped flower fields are the best-known sight.
  • Biei is all rolling hills and patchwork fields, plus the Blue Pond (Shirogane), whose colour changes with the season and weather.
  • Public transport is limited; a car, a day tour or a rental bike makes this region much easier.
  • In winter Furano becomes a ski resort.

Asahikawa

Hokkaido's second city is the gateway to Furano and Biei and to Daisetsuzan National Park. It is known for Asahiyama Zoo and its own soy-based ramen.

Hakodate

At the southern tip, Hakodate has a strong port-town character.
  • The night view from Mt Hakodate is one of the most famous in Japan.
  • The morning market near the station is busy from early on.
  • Goryokaku, a star-shaped Western-style fort, is best seen from the tower beside it, and is lined with cherry trees in spring.
  • The Motomachi district has old churches and Western-style buildings on steep streets.

Winter in Hokkaido

  • The Sapporo Snow Festival takes place in early February at Odori Park, Susukino and Tsudome. The 2027 edition is scheduled for 4–11 February 2027; check the official festival website for details as they are released. Hotels fill up months ahead.
  • Ski areas such as Niseko, Rusutsu and Furano are known for deep, dry powder.
  • Further north and east, drift ice can be seen off the Okhotsk coast in late winter.
  • Dress properly: thermal layers, a warm waterproof coat, gloves and shoes with grip. Pavements are icy, and slipping is the most common winter injury among visitors.

Driving in Hokkaido

Driving is the best way to see the countryside, and roads are well kept.
  • You need an International Driving Permit under the 1949 Geneva Convention, or an official Japanese translation of your licence for certain countries. Check which applies to you before you go.
  • Japan drives on the left.
  • In winter, rental cars come with snow tyres, but snow and ice driving needs experience. If you have never driven on snow, consider trains and tours instead.
  • Watch for deer, especially at dusk, and keep an eye on distances between petrol stations in remote areas.

When to go

  • Summer (July and August) is cool and green, with flowers and festivals.
  • Autumn brings early leaf colour in the mountains from September.
  • Winter (December to March) is for snow, skiing and the festival.
Which part of Hokkaido are you planning to visit, or what would you recommend? Share your questions and experiences in the comments.

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