Onsen etiquette in Japan: how to bathe, tattoos, towels and private baths

TUREFF• •0

A hot spring bath (onsen) is one of the best things about travelling in Japan, and the rules are simpler than they look. Most of them come down to one idea: the bath water is shared, so you get clean before you get in.

Step by step

Choose the right door. Baths are usually split by sex. The men's side is often marked with a blue curtain and 男, the women's with a red curtain and 女. Some places swap the sides on certain days, so read the curtain every time.
Undress fully in the changing room. Leave clothes in a basket or locker. Swimsuits are not worn in a traditional onsen.
Take only the small towel into the bathing area.
Wash thoroughly first at the washing stations: sit on the stool, use the shower and soap, and rinse off all the suds. Some people also pour hot water over themselves (kakeyu) before getting in.
Get in slowly. The water is often hot, around the low 40s Celsius.
Keep the towel out of the water. Fold it on your head or leave it at the side. Tie long hair up so it does not touch the water.
Keep it quiet: no swimming, splashing or loud talk, and no photos in the bath area.
Dry off before going back into the changing room, so you do not drip on the floor.

Towels

You normally get two: a small one for washing and carrying, and a large one that stays in the changing room for drying. Many public bathhouses charge to rent towels, so bring your own if you plan to visit several.

Tattoos

Policies vary a lot. Some onsen refuse anyone with tattoos, others allow small ones covered with a sticker or patch, and a growing number welcome tattoos. Your options:

Check the onsen's website or ask before you go.
Cover a small tattoo with a skin-coloured patch, where that is accepted.
Book a private bath (kashikiri-buro), a bath you rent for a time slot, so no one else is there. Many ryokan offer these, and some rooms come with their own open-air bath.
Choose places known to be tattoo-friendly; some local tourism sites list them.

Ryokan baths

At a traditional inn, the bath is part of the stay. You can walk there in the yukata (cotton robe) provided, and the same washing rules apply. Bath hours and the times when men's and women's sides switch are posted at the entrance; late-night and early-morning baths are often the quietest.

Mixed bathing

Mixed baths (konyoku) exist, mostly at older rural onsen, but they are rare. Some allow bathing wraps or set women-only hours. Unless a bath is clearly marked as mixed, assume it is not.

Health cautions

Drink water before and after; hot water dehydrates you faster than you notice.
Do not bathe drunk, or straight after a big meal.
Keep sessions short, especially at first, and get out if you feel dizzy.
Stand up slowly: a sudden drop in blood pressure can make you faint.
If you are pregnant, have heart problems or high blood pressure, check with a doctor first, and read the notices about the water's minerals.

Day trips and where to go

Many famous onsen towns, such as Hakone near Tokyo, are easy day trips by train, and city bathhouses (sento) follow the same rules for a few hundred yen. Look for 日帰り入浴 (day bathing) for onsen that accept non-staying guests. Have a favourite onsen, or a question about tattoos or rules? Share it in the comments.