Hiroshima and Miyajima guide: Peace Memorial Park, the floating torii and the visitor tax
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Hiroshima and the island of Miyajima are usually visited together, and they make one of the most moving and most beautiful days in Japan. One is a city rebuilt after the atomic bombing of 6 August 1945; the other is home to the shrine with the famous torii gate standing in the sea.
Getting there
- By Shinkansen: Hiroshima Station is on the Sanyo Shinkansen, so it is an easy trip from Osaka, Kyoto or Fukuoka, and possible as a long day trip from Kyoto or Osaka.
- Around the city: Hiroshima's trams run from the station to the Genbaku Dome-mae stop beside Peace Memorial Park; sightseeing loop buses also run, so check current routes locally.
Peace Memorial Park and Museum
The park was laid out near the hypocentre of the explosion and is free to walk around.
- Atomic Bomb Dome: the ruined shell of a prefectural exhibition hall, left standing as it was after the blast. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- Cenotaph for the A-bomb Victims: an arch that frames the Dome and the Flame of Peace in a single line of sight.
- Children's Peace Monument: dedicated to Sadako Sasaki and the children who died, surrounded by thousands of paper cranes sent from around the world.
- Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum: the heart of the visit. It tells the story of the bombing through survivors' belongings, photographs and testimony. Allow at least an hour and a half; many people find it overwhelming, and it is fine to take breaks. Admission is charged and hours vary by season, so check the museum's official site.
Getting to Miyajima
- Take the JR Sanyo Line from Hiroshima Station to Miyajimaguchi, about 25 to 30 minutes.
- Walk a few minutes to the pier and take a ferry, about 10 minutes. There are two operators; the JR ferry is covered by the Japan Rail Pass, and on some sailings detours closer to the torii.
- Alternatively, direct boats run from near Peace Memorial Park to Miyajima, which saves backtracking.
The Miyajima visitor tax
Since October 2023, Hatsukaichi City has charged a Miyajima Visitor Tax of 100 yen per person per visit, collected with your ferry fare. There is also an annual option for frequent visitors, and residents, commuters and some others are exempt. Rates and rules can change, so check Hatsukaichi City's or the ferry operators' websites before you travel.
Itsukushima Shrine
Itsukushima Shrine is built on stilts over the water, with the great torii standing offshore. Together they are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- High tide: the shrine and torii appear to float. This is the classic view.
- Low tide: you can walk out on the sand to the base of the torii.
Check a tide table for the day of your visit and, ideally, stay long enough to see both. The shrine charges a small entry fee.
More on the island
- Mount Misen: take the ropeway most of the way and walk to the summit for views over the Seto Inland Sea, or hike up from the town.
- Daisho-in Temple: a peaceful temple at the foot of the mountain, with hundreds of small statues.
- Omotesando: the shopping street, with grilled oysters and momiji manju, maple-leaf cakes with fillings.
- Deer: they roam freely. Do not feed them, and keep paper maps and snacks out of reach.
Staying overnight on Miyajima lets you see the island quiet after the day visitors leave, with the torii lit up at night.
Hiroshima okonomiyaki
Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki is built in layers on the griddle rather than mixed: a thin crêpe, piles of cabbage, bean sprouts, pork, then noodles (soba or udon) and an egg, topped with a sweet, thick sauce. Okonomimura, a building with floors of small counters, is the easy place to try several styles, but neighbourhood shops are just as good.
Planning tips
- Do the Peace Memorial Museum in the morning when it is quieter, then Miyajima in the afternoon, or the reverse if the tide suits.
- Allow a full day for both, more if you want Mount Misen.
- Weekends and autumn leaf season on Miyajima are crowded.
Have you visited Hiroshima or Miyajima? Share what stayed with you, or ask your questions, in the comments.