Kanazawa travel guide: Kenroku-en, Higashi Chaya, Omicho Market and Shirakawa-go

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Kanazawa, on the Sea of Japan coast in Ishikawa Prefecture, is one of the best places in Japan to see Edo-period streets, gardens and crafts without Kyoto's crowds. It escaped heavy bombing in the war, so its old districts survived, and it is now an easy trip from Tokyo by shinkansen. Two days is a comfortable stay, or three with a day trip to Shirakawa-go.

Getting there

From Tokyo: the Hokuriku Shinkansen runs from Tokyo to Kanazawa. The fastest Kagayaki trains take roughly two and a half to three hours.
Extension to Tsuruga: since 16 March 2024 the line continues beyond Kanazawa to Tsuruga in Fukui Prefecture, with new stations including Komatsu, Kaga Onsen, Awara Onsen and Fukui.
From Kyoto and Osaka: because of that extension, the Thunderbird limited express from Osaka and Kyoto now terminates at Tsuruga, where you change to the shinkansen for Kanazawa. Through tickets cover both.
Rail passes: the national JR Pass covers the route; regional passes may also work out better. See our JR Pass guide.
Kanazawa Station is worth a look in itself, with its giant wooden Tsuzumi-mon gate and glass dome.

Kenroku-en

Kenroku-en is traditionally counted among the three great landscape gardens of Japan. Ponds, stone lanterns, teahouses and carefully shaped pines make it beautiful in every season. In winter, ropes called yukitsuri are strung from poles to protect branches from heavy snow, and they have become a symbol of the city. Go early in the morning to beat tour groups. Kanazawa Castle Park is directly across the road.

Higashi Chaya district

The best preserved of Kanazawa's old teahouse districts: narrow streets lined with wooden latticed buildings where geisha once entertained guests. Some teahouses are open to visitors, and many buildings now hold cafés, craft shops and gold leaf stores. Smaller districts such as Kazuemachi and Nishi Chaya are quieter. Nearby, the Nagamachi samurai district has earthen walls, canals and a restored samurai house.

Omicho Market

Kanazawa's covered market has fed the city for centuries. Come for the seafood from the Sea of Japan: kaisendon (raw seafood on rice), grilled scallops, oysters and, in season, snow crab and sweet shrimp. Arrive for breakfast or an early lunch; popular stalls queue later and many shops close in the late afternoon.

21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art

A round glass building near Kenroku-en with free public areas and paid exhibitions. Its best-known work is Leandro Erlich's The Swimming Pool: from above you seem to see people standing underwater, because there is only a thin layer of water over glass. Viewing from above is free; going underneath needs an exhibition ticket, and timed entry is common at busy times.

Gold leaf

Kanazawa makes almost all of Japan's gold leaf, with official sources putting its share at over 98 to 99 percent. You can watch leaf being beaten thin, try applying it to chopsticks or a small box at a workshop, and, inevitably, eat soft-serve ice cream covered in a whole sheet of gold.

Day trip to Shirakawa-go

Shirakawa-go, in Gifu Prefecture, is a village of steep thatched gassho-zukuri farmhouses, listed by UNESCO in 1995 together with Gokayama. There is no train; highway buses from Kanazawa Station take roughly 75 to 85 minutes each way. Seats are reserved and sell out at peak times, especially for the winter evening illuminations, so book early on the bus company's website. Many travellers continue to Takayama rather than return the same day.

When to go

Spring: cherry blossom in Kenroku-en and around the castle.
Autumn: maples in the garden and comfortable walking weather.
Winter: snow, yukitsuri and crab season, but it is cold and grey.
Summer is hot and humid but uncrowded on weekdays.

Getting around

Most sights are within walking distance of one another. Loop buses from the station link the main districts, and city bike share is an option in fine weather. Have you been to Kanazawa, or are you planning a Hokuriku trip? Share your itinerary or questions in the comments.