Hakone day trip or overnight from Tokyo: the Hakone Loop, Owakudani and onsen

TUREFF• •0

Hakone, in the mountains south-west of Tokyo, combines hot springs, a lake, volcanic valleys, art museums and, on a clear day, a view of Mount Fuji. It works as a long day trip, but staying a night in an onsen ryokan is what makes it special.

Getting there from Shinjuku

The Odakyu Romancecar is a limited express from Shinjuku direct to Hakone-Yumoto, the gateway town, in about an hour and a half. All seats are reserved, and you pay a limited express charge on top of the fare. Book ahead at weekends and in leaf season.
Regular Odakyu trains are cheaper and slower, usually with a change at Odawara.
With a Japan Rail Pass you can take the shinkansen to Odawara and switch to local transport there. The JR Pass does not cover the Odakyu or Hakone lines.
Highway buses from Shinjuku go directly to the lake side of Hakone.

The Hakone Loop

The classic route links several kinds of transport in a circuit:

Hakone Tozan Railway from Hakone-Yumoto up to Gora. The train climbs steeply through the forest, reversing at switchbacks.
Hakone Tozan Cable Car, a funicular, from Gora to Sounzan.
Hakone Ropeway from Sounzan over Owakudani to Togendai on Lake Ashi.
Hakone Sightseeing Cruise across Lake Ashi to Hakone-machi or Moto-Hakone, on boats styled as old sailing ships.
Bus back down to Hakone-Yumoto.

You can do it in either direction. Starting early avoids the longest queues at the ropeway and gives you the best chance of seeing Fuji, which often clouds over by midday.

Owakudani

Owakudani is a volcanic valley of steaming vents and sulphur smell, reached by the ropeway. Its famous snack is kuro-tamago, eggs boiled in the hot springs until the shells turn black. Hakone is an active volcanic area. When volcanic activity rises, the authorities raise the alert level, the area around Owakudani can close and the ropeway can stop, with replacement buses running. The ropeway also suspends service for strong winds, volcanic gas readings and maintenance. Check the Japan Meteorological Agency's volcanic warnings and the Hakone operators' news pages on the day. People with asthma or heart conditions are advised to be careful with the gas.

Other sights

Hakone Shrine, with its red torii standing in Lake Ashi.
The Old Tokaido Road, a stretch of the historic highway with stone paving and cedar trees.
Hakone Open-Air Museum, with sculpture in the landscape, near Gora.
Several other art and glass museums along the bus routes.

Views of Mount Fuji

Fuji is visible from the ropeway, the lake and Moto-Hakone on clear days, most reliably in late autumn and winter mornings. In summer it is often hidden. Treat any view as a bonus. Our Mount Fuji guide lists other viewpoints.

Staying overnight in an onsen ryokan

A night in Hakone lets you do the loop without rushing and soak in hot springs in the evening.

Many ryokan include a multi-course dinner and breakfast.
Rooms with a private open-air bath are popular with couples and with people who have tattoos.
Book well ahead for weekends, holidays and autumn.

See our guides to staying at a ryokan and onsen etiquette.

The Hakone Freepass

The Hakone Freepass, sold by Odakyu, is a 2- or 3-day pass covering the Hakone Tozan Railway, cable car, ropeway, lake cruise and designated buses, with versions that include the round trip from Shinjuku or start at Odawara. It also gives discounts at many attractions. The Romancecar's limited express ticket is not included and is bought separately. It is sold as a digital ticket online and on paper at Odakyu service centres and machines. If you plan to do the full loop, compare its current price against single tickets on the official Odakyu site.

Day trip or overnight?

A day trip covers the loop and one or two sights if you leave Tokyo early. An overnight stay adds the onsen, a calmer morning and a second chance at Fuji. Did you do the loop clockwise or the other way? Share tips, a ryokan you loved or your questions in the comments.