Japanese food to try in Japan: sushi, ramen styles, okonomiyaki and izakaya ordering

TUREFF• •0

Eating is one of the best reasons to visit Japan. Even simple places take food seriously, and every region has its own speciality. Here is a guide to the dishes worth seeking out, what the names mean, and how to order without stress.

Sushi

Nigiri: a slice of fish on a small mound of rice. Eat it in one bite. If dipping, turn it so the fish, not the rice, touches the soy sauce.
Maki: rolls wrapped in seaweed. Hosomaki are thin with one filling; futomaki are thick with several.
Gunkan: a strip of seaweed wrapped around rice to hold soft toppings such as salmon roe (ikura) or sea urchin (uni).
Temaki: hand rolls shaped like a cone.
Chirashi: fish and toppings scattered over a bowl of rice.

Conveyor-belt sushi (kaitenzushi) is cheap, fun and often excellent; most chains now take orders by touchscreen with an English option. A counter sushi bar costs more, and an omakase (chef's choice) meal is a splurge worth booking ahead.

Ramen by region

Tonkotsu: creamy pork-bone broth, associated with Fukuoka (Hakata). Thin noodles; you can order a refill of noodles (kaedama).
Shoyu: soy-sauce broth, the classic Tokyo style.
Miso: rich miso broth, Sapporo's speciality, often with corn and butter.
Shio: light, salt-based broth, associated with Hakodate.
Tsukemen: noodles served separately to dip in a thick, concentrated broth.

Many ramen shops use a ticket machine at the door: choose, pay, hand the ticket over. Slurping is normal.

Okonomiyaki versus monjayaki

Okonomiyaki is a savoury pancake of batter, cabbage and toppings, finished with sauce, mayonnaise, bonito flakes and seaweed. Osaka style mixes everything into the batter; Hiroshima style layers it, with noodles in the middle.
Monjayaki is Tokyo's runnier cousin, especially around Tsukishima. The batter spreads into a thin, gooey layer on the hotplate, and you scrape it up with tiny spatulas. It looks odd and tastes great.

At many places you cook it yourself at the table; staff will help if you look lost.

Takoyaki

Balls of batter with a piece of octopus inside, cooked in a moulded pan and topped like okonomiyaki. Osaka's Dotonbori is the classic place to try them. They come out molten inside, so wait a moment.

Tempura

Seafood and vegetables in a light, crisp batter. At a good tempura counter the chef fries each piece and puts it in front of you one at a time. Dip in the light tentsuyu sauce with grated daikon, or in salt. Tendon (tempura on rice) is the cheap, filling version.

Kaiseki

Kaiseki is a multi-course meal built around the season: small, beautifully presented dishes of simmered, grilled, raw and pickled food. It is often served at ryokan (traditional inns) as part of a stay, or at restaurants in Kyoto. Book ahead and mention any allergies or dietary needs when you do.

Izakaya: how to order

An izakaya is a Japanese pub that serves food in small plates for sharing.

You may be served a small starter (otōshi) you did not order. It comes with a table charge; this is normal.
Order drinks first. "Toriaezu biru" (beer for now) is the classic opening line.
Order a few dishes at a time, and more as you go. Look for yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), karaage (fried chicken), edamame, sashimi, agedashi tofu and potato salad.
Call staff with "sumimasen" or a table button. Many places have tablet or QR-code ordering.
Pay at the till on the way out.

Convenience store food

Japanese convenience stores are a cuisine of their own, from onigiri to fried chicken to desserts. They are perfect for breakfast or a train picnic; our separate convenience store guide covers what to pick up.

Etiquette at the table

Say "itadakimasu" before eating and "gochisōsama deshita" after.
Do not stick chopsticks upright in rice or pass food from chopsticks to chopsticks; both are associated with funerals.
Use the wet towel (oshibori) for your hands, not your face, in nicer restaurants.
Eating while walking is frowned on in many places; eat by the stall.
Tipping is not expected anywhere.
Some smaller restaurants ask you to order at least one item each.

What is the best thing you ate in Japan, and where? Share your recommendations and questions in the comments.