Busan travel guide for first-timers: KTX, beaches, Gamcheon and a 3-day plan
TUREFF• •0
Busan is Korea's second city and its biggest port: beaches, seafood, temples on the rocks and hillside villages, all reachable by subway or a short bus ride. It is an easy add-on to a Seoul trip, and many visitors end up liking it more.
Getting there
- KTX from Seoul: the high-speed train runs from Seoul Station to Busan Station. The fastest services take a little over two hours; trains with more stops take closer to three. Book on the Korail website or app, especially for weekends and holidays.
- SRT: a separate high-speed operator runs from Suseo station in southern Seoul to Busan, handy if you are staying in Gangnam.
- By air: Gimhae International Airport has domestic and international flights. The Busan-Gimhae Light Rail runs from the airport to Sasang, where you change to Line 2 for Seomyeon and Haeundae.
- Busan Station is in the city centre and connects to subway Line 1.
Getting around
Busan has a subway network and plenty of buses, and the T-money card you used in Seoul works here too. Use Naver Map or KakaoMap for routes. Taxis are reasonable for short hops, especially up to hillside sights.
Haeundae
The famous beach, a long sweep of sand backed by hotels and towers, on Line 2. Walk the Dongbaekseom island trail at the south end, and look at the Haeundae Blueline Park, a coastal railway with a beach train and small sky capsules running along the old line towards Songjeong. Book capsules ahead in busy seasons.
Gwangalli
A smaller beach facing the Gwangan Bridge, which lights up at night. Gwangalli has more cafés and bars along the front and a younger, livelier evening feel than Haeundae. It is on Line 2 as well, a few stops from Haeundae.
Gamcheon Culture Village
A hillside neighbourhood of brightly painted houses, murals and small galleries, built up by refugees during the Korean War. Take Line 1 to Toseong station and a short local bus up the hill; check the bus number in your map app on the day. Remember people live here: keep your voice down and do not walk into homes or private alleys.
Haedong Yonggungsa
A Buddhist temple built on the rocks right above the sea, unusual in Korea, where most temples sit in the mountains. Take the Donghae Line to Osiria station, then a short bus, taxi or walk. Go early to avoid the crowds.
Jagalchi and the old town
Jagalchi Market, on Line 1, is Korea's best-known fish market: pick seafood downstairs and have it prepared at a restaurant upstairs. Nearby are Gukje Market, BIFF Square with its street snacks such as ssiat hotteok (seed-filled sweet pancakes), and Yongdusan Park with Busan Tower.
Food to try
- Dwaeji gukbap: pork and rice soup, a Busan staple.
- Milmyeon: Busan's cold wheat noodles.
- Eomuk: fish cake, sold in skewers at stalls and in shops.
- Raw fish (hoe) and grilled shellfish by the sea.
A three-day plan
- Day 1: arrive by KTX, drop bags, Jagalchi Market for lunch, Gukje Market and BIFF Square, then Gamcheon Culture Village in the late afternoon light.
- Day 2: Haedong Yonggungsa in the morning, back to Haeundae for the beach, Dongbaekseom and the Blueline Park, then Gwangalli at night for the bridge lights.
- Day 3: Taejongdae's cliffs on Yeongdo island, or Huinnyeoul Culture Village's coastal path, then Seomyeon for shopping and dinner before the train back.
With only two days, combine days 1 and 3 and keep Haeundae and the temple for the second.
Tips
- Summer weekends at Haeundae are very crowded; spring and autumn are more comfortable.
- Hillside sights mean steep streets; wear good shoes.
- Bus numbers and timetables change, so check your map app rather than an old blog post.
Planning a Busan trip or just back from one? Ask questions or share your favourite spot in the comments.