Autumn foliage in Korea: when and where to see the leaves, from Seoraksan to Seoul
TUREFF• •0
Autumn is the season many Koreans would call the best of the year: dry, clear days, cool nights and mountains that turn red, orange and gold. The colour moves from north to south and from the mountaintops down to the cities over about six weeks, so when you see it depends far more on where you are than on the calendar.
How the season moves
- The high mountains of Gangwon-do go first. Seoraksan and Odaesan usually show their first colour around the end of September or start of October and are at their best in mid to late October.
- Central Korea and Seoul follow, typically from late October into early or mid November.
- The south-west and the south are last. Naejangsan, often the last famous mountain to peak, is usually at its best from late October into early November.
- City trees lag behind the mountains. Ginkgo-lined streets in Seoul often turn yellow in early November.
The Korea Forest Service publishes a foliage forecast map every autumn, and private forecasters publish their own. Their definitions differ (some call it peak when half the leaves have turned, others at around 80 percent), so compare dates from the same source. This year's forecasts point to a season running somewhat later than the long-term average because of a warm autumn, which is a good reminder to check the forecast rather than rely on last year's photos.
Seoraksan
The most famous foliage mountain in Korea, on the east side of Gangwon-do near Sokcho. The cable car and the walk to Biryong Falls or Ulsanbawi give you colour without a summit climb. In peak weeks expect very long queues for the cable car and car parks full by mid-morning. The Seoraksan guide on this site covers trails, the cable car and getting there from Seoul.
Naejangsan
In Jeongeup, North Jeolla, Naejangsan is famous for its maples, especially the tunnel of red leaves on the approach to Naejangsa temple. It is the classic late-season trip and gets extremely busy on peak weekends, when shuttle and parking queues can be long. Go on a weekday if you possibly can, and set off early.
Foliage in Seoul without leaving the city
- Namsan: the walking paths around the mountain and up to the tower are lined with trees, and the views look down over a city of turning hills. Walk up rather than wait for the cable car.
- Deoksugung stone wall road (Deoksugung Doldam-gil): the road around the palace wall near City Hall Station is lined with ginkgo and plane trees, gold in early November. It is free and best early in the morning.
- Haneul Park: in World Cup Park in Mapo-gu, this former landfill is covered in silver grass (eulsae) that turns silver-white in October. The city usually holds a silver grass festival there in mid to late October, with extended evening hours; check the Seoul parks website for this year's dates. Expect to climb a long staircase or take the shuttle.
- Palaces: Changdeokgung's Secret Garden is beautiful in autumn but needs a guided-tour booking; the palaces guide covers tickets.
- Seoul Forest and Olympic Park are good if you want trees and space rather than a landmark.
Other spots worth knowing
- Odaesan in Gangwon-do, with the fir-lined path to Woljeongsa temple.
- Juwangsan in North Gyeongsang, with cliffs and a reflective reservoir.
- Nami Island, a popular day trip from Seoul, famous for tree-lined avenues (see the day trips guide).
Crowd tips
- Weekends in peak weeks are very busy. A weekday visit makes a bigger difference here than almost anywhere else.
- Leave early. Tour buses arrive mid-morning, and the light is better before then anyway.
- Many package day tours run from Seoul to Seoraksan and Naejangsan in season; they save you the transport planning but put you there at the busiest hours.
- Bring layers. Mountain mornings in October can be close to freezing even when Seoul is mild.
- Stick to marked trails, and check the national park website: some trails close in late autumn for fire prevention.
Where did you see the best colours in Korea? Share your favourite spot or ask about timing in the comments.