Seoul palaces guide: Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung Secret Garden, tickets and hanbok

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Seoul has five royal palaces from the Joseon dynasty, all within a short subway ride of each other. You can see one in two hours, or spend two days on all five. This guide covers what makes each one different, how to fit them together, and the practical rules that catch visitors out.

Gyeongbokgung: the main palace

Gyeongbokgung was the principal palace and is the largest and most visited. Walk through Gwanghwamun gate, past the throne hall Geunjeongjeon, and on to the pond pavilion Gyeonghoeru, which is the picture most people have seen. The National Folk Museum sits inside the grounds and the National Palace Museum is by the entrance.

Guard changing ceremony: a re-enactment of the royal gate guard runs at Gwanghwamun on most open days, with costumed guards, drums and flags. It is free to watch from outside the gate. Check the day's times on the official site, as performances are cancelled in bad weather and extreme heat.
Closed on Tuesdays, not Mondays like most other palaces.

Changdeokgung and the Secret Garden

Changdeokgung is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and many people's favourite, because its buildings follow the hills rather than a strict grid. Behind it is Huwon, the Secret Garden: ponds, pavilions and old trees that the royal family kept for themselves.

You can only enter Huwon on a guided tour with a separate ticket, and tours have a capped number of places.
Part of each tour's places can be booked online in advance (the window opens several days ahead) and part are sold on site on the day. Autumn leaf season sells out first, so book as soon as the window opens.
English-language tours run at set times; the schedule changes by month.
Changdeokgung is closed on Mondays.

Deoksugung: the evening palace

Deoksugung sits in the middle of the city by City Hall, and is unusual for having Western-style stone buildings beside traditional halls. It stays open into the evening, which makes it the easiest palace to fit after work or dinner, and the stone-wall walk (Deoksugung Doldam-gil) outside is lovely at dusk. Closed on Mondays.

Changgyeonggung

Changgyeonggung is joined to Changdeokgung and much quieter. Its highlight is the white Great Greenhouse (Daeonsil), a glasshouse built in the early 20th century, and the pond beside it. Combine it with Changdeokgung on the same morning.

Gyeonghuigung

The least visited of the five, near Seoul Museum of History. Much of it was destroyed and only part has been rebuilt, but it is peaceful and usually free to enter. Good if you want a palace with almost nobody else in it.

Free entry in hanbok

Visitors wearing hanbok, Korea's traditional dress, enter the palaces free. The rule applies to foreign visitors as well as Koreans, and you can rent hanbok from the many shops around Gyeongbokgung and Anguk station. Two things to know:

Staff check on site, and the guidelines say the outfit should be recognisably hanbok. Very short skirts and heavily modified "fusion" styles may not qualify.
The rental shops are not part of the palace, so pick one with clear prices and return times.

Tickets and the combined pass

Single-palace tickets are cheap and sold at each gate. If you plan to see several, there is a combined ticket covering the four main palaces and Jongmyo Shrine, valid for a few months. Whether it includes the Huwon tour has varied, so check the official palace site before buying. Children and older visitors get free or reduced entry under rules set by the Korea Heritage Service.

Planning around closing days

Gyeongbokgung closes on Tuesdays; Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung and Deoksugung close on Mondays.
Holiday weeks can shift the closing day, so check before a holiday visit.
Last entry is usually an hour before closing.
Go early: by late morning Gyeongbokgung fills with tour groups.

A good route for one long day: Gyeongbokgung at opening, lunch in Samcheong-dong or Bukchon, Changdeokgung with a pre-booked Secret Garden tour in the afternoon, then Deoksugung in the evening.

Seasonal night openings

Gyeongbokgung and Changgyeonggung hold limited night openings in spring and autumn, and Changdeokgung runs a moonlight tour. These need tickets booked in advance and sell out fast; watch the Korea Heritage Service announcements. Opening hours and ticket rules change, so confirm on the official palace or Korea Heritage Service websites before you go. Which palace was your favourite, or what would you like to ask before your visit? Tell us in the comments.