Jeonju Hanok Village guide: getting there, hanbok, bibimbap and staying in a hanok

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Jeonju, in North Jeolla, is where many visitors get their first proper look at a whole neighbourhood of traditional Korean houses. The Hanok Village is not a museum: people live, cook and run guesthouses in these buildings, and the city's food reputation is the other half of the reason to come. Here is how to plan a visit.

Getting there

By train: KTX runs from Yongsan Station in Seoul to Jeonju Station. Depending on the train it takes roughly one and a half to two hours; check Korail (letskorail.com) or the Korail Talk app for the current timetable.
By bus: express buses leave from Seoul Express Bus Terminal and Central City in Gangnam for Jeonju, and are often easier to book at short notice than the train.
Station to village: Jeonju Station is on the edge of town. Several city buses run to the Hanok Village in about 25 minutes, or take a taxi. Your map app (Naver Map or KakaoMap) will give the current bus numbers.

How big it is

The official Hanok Village site counts 735 hanok in the area, one of the largest groups of traditional houses still lived in anywhere in Korea. You can walk the whole thing in an afternoon, but it is much better slowly, and early in the morning before the crowds.

What to see

Gyeonggijeon Shrine: built to hold the portrait of Taejo, the founder of the Joseon dynasty, with quiet grounds and a bamboo grove.
Jeondong Cathedral: a red-brick Catholic church from the early 20th century, standing on the site where early Korean Catholics were martyred, directly opposite Gyeonggijeon.
Omokdae: a small pavilion on a hill at the edge of the village; climb it for the classic view over the tiled roofs.
Jaman Mural Village: a hillside lane of painted houses across the road and up the steps, good for photos and a coffee.
Jeonju Hyanggyo: a Confucian school by the stream, famous for its huge ginkgo trees, which turn gold in autumn.
Nambu Market: a traditional market just outside the village, with a night market and small shops upstairs at weekends.

Hanbok

Hanbok rental shops line the main streets, and wearing one around the village is a big part of the day for many visitors. You choose the outfit, hair accessories are often extra, and you return it at the end of the slot. A few things that help:

Book a weekday morning if you can; weekends are busy.
Bring comfortable shoes that work with a long skirt or trousers, as the lanes are paved but uneven in places.
Photos in front of hanok gates are fine, but remember many of the houses are private homes.

Food

Jeonju bibimbap: the dish the city is known for, rice topped with seasoned vegetables, beef and a raw or fried egg, often served in a hot stone or brass bowl with a spread of side dishes.
Kongnamul gukbap: bean sprout soup with rice, the local breakfast and hangover cure.
Makgeolli alleys: in the makgeolli districts outside the centre, you order a kettle of rice wine and the table fills with side dishes that grow with each kettle. Go in a group.
Street food: the main street is lined with snacks, from grilled skewers to the city's well-known chocolate pies sold by local bakeries.

Staying in a hanok

Spending a night in a hanok guesthouse is the best way to see the village when the day visitors have gone. Expect:

A heated floor (ondol) and sleeping on a thick mattress on the floor, though some places offer beds.
Thin walls and shared courtyards, so it is quieter in spirit than a hotel but not always in practice.
Shoes off at the step, every time.

Book ahead for weekends, autumn and the spring film festival period, when the town fills up.

Day trip or overnight?

A day trip from Seoul works, but you spend a lot of it on the train. An overnight stay lets you see the village at dusk, eat dinner in a makgeolli house and walk the lanes in the morning when they are empty. Opening hours and transport change, so check the official site (hanok.jeonju.go.kr) before you go. Share your favourite bibimbap place or ask about planning your Jeonju trip in the comments.