Seoraksan National Park guide: Ulsanbawi, the cable car, Daecheongbong and autumn colours

TUREFF• •0

Seoraksan, on the east coast near Sokcho, is the park most people mean when they talk about hiking in Korea. Jagged granite ridges, deep valleys and some of the country's most famous autumn colours make it worth the trip, whether you take the cable car or climb the highest peak.

Getting there

Seoul to Sokcho: express buses leave from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal and Seoul Express Bus Terminal and take roughly two and a half to three hours. Check Kobus or the terminal for times.
Sokcho to the park: city buses 7 and 7-1 run to the Seorak-dong entrance (Sogongwon), usually in 25 to 30 minutes. Taxis are worth it for early starts.
Other entrances: Osaek on the south side and Baekdam to the west are used for longer and summit routes, and are reached by different buses.

Park admission is free. The fee once charged at Sinheungsa Temple, the cultural-heritage charge, was abolished in May 2023, so ignore older posts that mention it.

Popular routes from Seorak-dong

Gwongeumseong cable car: the easy way up. It climbs to the ruins of Gwongeumseong Fortress on a rocky peak, followed by a short, uneven walk to the top. Queues are long in autumn; check the operator's site for booking and hours.
Ulsanbawi: the classic half-day hike. The trail passes Sinheungsa Temple, its large bronze Buddha and the rocking boulder Heundeulbawi, then climbs to a huge granite ridge. The last section is a long run of steep metal stairs. Allow about four hours or more for the round trip.
Biryong Falls and Towangseong Falls viewpoint: a gentler valley walk with waterfalls, good for a shorter day.

Daecheongbong summit

Daecheongbong, at about 1,708 metres, is the highest point in the park and the third-highest mountain in South Korea after Hallasan and Jirisan. Reaching it is a serious full-day hike:

The shortest route is from Osaek, short in distance but steep and relentless.
Longer routes run from Seorak-dong via Cheonbuldong Valley or from Hangyeryeong.
Some people stay at a mountain shelter, such as Jungcheong, which must be booked through the Korea National Park Service reservation system.

Start at first light, carry a headtorch, and turn back by the time you set yourself, whatever the summit looks like.

Autumn foliage

Seoraksan is one of the first places in Korea where the leaves turn. Colour usually starts on the high ridges at the end of September or early October and moves down the valleys through October. Exact dates change every year; the Korea Meteorological Administration and news sites publish foliage forecasts in September. Peak weekends are very crowded, so go on a weekday if you can, and arrive early.

Safety

Weather changes fast on the ridges. Bring a warm layer and waterproof even on a sunny day, and gloves for the cold summit in autumn.
Carry enough water and food; there are few places to buy anything above the valleys.
Trails close at set times in the afternoon, and you will be turned back at the entrance if you start too late.
Stay on marked trails and respect the closed sections; rescue on these ridges is difficult.

Trail closures

Many trails close every year during the spring and autumn wildfire prevention periods, and sections can also close after heavy rain, snow or for restoration. The routes and dates change, so check the Korea National Park Service website (knps.or.kr) before you set out, and look for notices at the entrance.

Where to stay

Sokcho is the obvious base, with fresh seafood at Daepo Port and the Jungang Market, and easy buses to the park. Seorak-dong itself also has hotels near the entrance for an early start. Have you hiked Seoraksan, or are you deciding on a route? Share your experience or ask in the comments.