Jeju Island travel guide: getting there, car or bus, Hallasan and what to see

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Jeju is Korea's volcanic island off the south coast: black lava rock, green tea fields, orchards of tangerines and Korea's highest mountain in the middle. It is an easy trip from Seoul or Busan and works for anything from a long weekend to a week.

Getting there

By air: most visitors fly into Jeju International Airport. The Seoul (Gimpo) to Jeju route is one of the busiest air routes in the world, so there are flights all day from several airlines. There are also flights from Busan and other Korean cities, plus some international routes.
By ferry: ferries run from mainland ports on the south coast. They take much longer but let you bring your own car.

Renting a car or taking the bus

Jeju is spread out, and many sights sit along the coast or in the hills, so a car makes the island much easier. Driving as a foreign visitor: you need an International Driving Permit issued under the Geneva or Vienna convention, valid for your whole trip, along with your national licence. Rental companies check this at the counter, and some state that they will not rent to a foreigner who has lived in Korea for more than a year on an IDP, because by then you are expected to hold a Korean licence. Requirements vary by company, so read the rental terms before you book. Drive carefully: speed cameras are everywhere, and the hill roads are narrow and foggy. Buses: Jeju has a good public bus network, including express buses across the island and frequent routes around the coast. With Naver Map or KakaoMap for routes and a T-money card for fares, you can see a lot without driving. It is slower, so base yourself in Jeju City or Seogwipo and plan one area per day. Taxis and Kakao T work well for short hops, and day tours with a driver are common if you do not want to drive.

The east

Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak): a tuff cone rising straight out of the sea. Climb early for the sunrise.
Udo: a small island reached by ferry from near Seongsan, good for cycling.
Manjanggul: a long lava tube you can walk inside.
Haenyeo, the island's women divers, can still be seen around the eastern coast.

The west

Hyeopjae and Geumneung beaches: shallow, clear water with a view of Biyangdo island.
O'sulloc and the surrounding green tea fields.
Quieter cafés, museums and the Jeju Olle walking trails along the coast.

The south

Seogwipo: waterfalls such as Cheonjiyeon and Jeongbang, which falls straight into the sea.
Jusangjeolli: hexagonal basalt columns on the shore.
Seogwipo's Olle Market for street food.

Hiking Hallasan

Hallasan is the highest mountain in South Korea and the centre of a national park. Several trails go up its slopes, but only two reach the summit crater lake, Baengnokdam: the Seongpanak and Gwaneumsa trails. Both summit trails need an advance reservation through the official Hallasan National Park booking site (visithalla.jeju.go.kr). Daily numbers are capped, and slots go quickly in autumn and on weekends, so book as soon as your dates are fixed. Bring the ID you booked with, as it is checked against your QR code at the trailhead. Other trails, such as Yeongsil and Eorimok, do not need a booking and reach the Witse-oreum shelter with superb views, but not the summit. Summit hikes are long day hikes. There are cut-off times at the shelters after which you are not allowed to continue upward, so start early. Bring water, food, layers and proper shoes; the weather on the mountain is very different from the coast.

When to go

Spring: canola flowers and cherry blossoms; mild and popular.
Summer: beach season, but hot, humid and prone to the monsoon and typhoons.
Autumn: clear skies, silver grass on the oreum (small volcanic hills), and the best hiking.
Winter: snow on Hallasan, tangerine picking, and fewer crowds. Winter hiking needs crampons.

What to eat

Black pork (heukdwaeji), grilled at the table.
Fresh seafood and raw fish, including abalone porridge (jeonbokjuk).
Galchi (hairtail) dishes, grilled or braised.
Hallabong and other Jeju citrus, plus tangerine everything.

Trail rules and rental policies change, so check the official sites before you go. Share your own Jeju route, or ask about planning one, in the comments below.