Hongdae, Yeonnam and Seongsu: what to do in Seoul's trendiest neighbourhoods

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If palaces and markets show you old Seoul, Hongdae, Yeonnam-dong and Seongsu show you where young Seoul spends its weekends. They are the neighbourhoods for buskers, independent cafés, design shops, pop-up stores and late nights. Here is what each area is like, what to do, and how to string them together.

Hongdae

Hongdae is the area around Hongik University, an art school, and it has kept an artsy, noisy, youthful edge for decades.

Street performances: on the pedestrian streets near Hongik University station, dancers, singers and bands perform most evenings and especially at weekends. K-pop dance covers draw the biggest crowds. Stand at the back, enjoy it, and drop something in the case if you liked it.
Shopping: affordable clothing, character shops, photo booths, accessory stores and themed cafés. Many shops open late morning and stay open late.
Live music: Hongdae is the home of Seoul's indie music scene, with small clubs hosting bands most nights. Check venue listings for that week.
Free market: a weekend art and craft market has long been held in the small park opposite the university in the warmer months. Check the schedule before planning around it.

Yeonnam-dong and Gyeongui Line Forest Park

Yeonnam-dong sits just north of Hongik University station and is quieter, greener and full of small cafés, bakeries and restaurants in converted houses. Its centrepiece is Gyeongui Line Forest Park, a long strip of park built over an old railway line that now runs underground. On fine evenings the lawn fills with people sitting on mats with takeaway food and drinks, which is why locals nicknamed the Yeonnam stretch "Yeontral Park". It is a lovely place to walk, and the path continues for kilometres if you want to keep going. The side streets reward wandering. Many of the best places are up a flight of stairs or behind an unmarked door, so look up as well as around.

Seongsu-dong

Seongsu, on the east side of the city, was an area of shoe workshops, printing shops and warehouses. Many of those buildings are now cafés, galleries, bakeries and flagship stores, and the neighbourhood is often called Seoul's Brooklyn.

Pop-up stores: brands, from fashion to cosmetics to video games, open short-run pop-ups here constantly, often with queues and photo spots. Search social media for "Seongsu pop-up" in the week you visit to see what is on.
Warehouse cafés: huge industrial spaces with exposed brick and high ceilings, popular for brunch and photographs.
Seoul Forest: a large park on the edge of Seongsu, good for a walk or a break, with Han River views nearby.
Shoe street: some of the original handmade shoe workshops remain near Seongsu station.

Seongsu is busiest at weekends, especially in the afternoon. A weekday morning is calmer, though some shops open only from late morning.

Nightlife

Hongdae is the main nightlife area for students and young travellers: bars, clubs, karaoke rooms (noraebang) and street food until late. It gets busy after 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays.
Yeonnam is better for wine bars, craft beer and long dinners.
Seongsu has a growing number of bars, but it is more of a daytime and early-evening area.
The subway stops running around midnight. After that, taxis are in demand around Hongdae, so booking through a taxi app is easier than hailing.

Getting there

Hongdae and Yeonnam: Hongik University station on Line 2, also on the AREX airport railway and the Gyeongui–Jungang Line. Exit 3 brings you out by the forest park and Yeonnam; exit 9 is closer to the main Hongdae streets. It is a convenient base if you are arriving from Incheon Airport.
Seongsu: Seongsu station on Line 2, or Seoul Forest station on the Suin–Bundang Line for the park end.
Hongdae to Seongsu is a straight ride along Line 2, roughly forty minutes.

A one-day plan

Late morning: coffee and a pop-up or two in Seongsu, then a walk in Seoul Forest.
Afternoon: Line 2 across the city to Hongik University station.
Late afternoon: Yeonnam cafés and the forest park.
Evening: dinner, buskers and a night out in Hongdae.

Which café, pop-up or bar would you recommend in these neighbourhoods? Share your finds and questions in the comments.