Gangneung and the east coast: KTX from Seoul, Anmok coffee street and Jeongdongjin
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Gangneung is the easiest way to swap Seoul for the sea. Since the high-speed line opened for the 2018 PyeongChang Winter Olympics, it has gone from a long bus ride to a comfortable train journey, and it now draws people for its beaches, its coffee culture and one of Korea's best-loved sunrise spots.
Getting there
- KTX: KTX-Eum trains run to Gangneung from Seoul Station and Cheongnyangni, and stop at a few stations on the way. The journey takes roughly one hour 45 minutes to two hours. All seats are reserved, and weekend trains sell out, so book on Korail (letskorail.com) or the Korail Talk app.
- Bus: express buses run from Seoul's main terminals and are a good back-up when trains are full.
- Around town: city buses and taxis connect the station with the beaches. Use Naver Map or KakaoMap for current routes; Google Maps will not give you directions in Korea.
Anmok Beach and coffee street
The stretch of road behind Anmok Beach has become the symbol of Gangneung's coffee scene. It started in the 1980s with rows of instant coffee vending machines facing the sea; today it is a strip of around 30 cafés, most with upstairs windows or rooftops looking over the East Sea. Gangneung also holds a coffee festival in autumn, and several well-known roasteries began here.
Go late in the afternoon, pick a café with a terrace, and walk the sand afterwards.
Other beaches
- Gyeongpo Beach: the biggest and liveliest beach, with Gyeongpo Lake and the Gyeongpodae pavilion just behind it. Good for cycling around the lake.
- Jumunjin: a fishing port to the north, with a large fish market. The breakwater at Jumunjin became famous as a filming location for the drama Goblin, and fans still queue to recreate the scene.
- Hyangho Beach: near Jumunjin, known for the bus stop set built for a BTS album cover shoot.
Jeongdongjin
Jeongdongjin is south of Gangneung, and its station sits right by the sea, one of the closest railway stations to a beach anywhere in Korea. It is known above all for sunrise: people arrive on early trains or stay nearby to watch the sun come up over the water. Look out for the cruise-ship-shaped hotel on the clifftop and the Jeongdongjin–Simgok coastal path (Badabuchae-gil) when it is open. Local trains and buses run from Gangneung; check times the night before.
Ojukheon
Ojukheon is a Joseon-era house set among black bamboo, the birthplace of the scholar Yulgok Yi I and the home of his mother, the artist Shin Saimdang. Both appear on Korean banknotes: Yulgok on the 5,000 won note and Shin Saimdang on the 50,000 won note. There is a small museum and pleasant grounds, and it combines easily with a visit to Gyeongpo.
What to eat
- Chodang sundubu: soft tofu made with seawater in the Chodang village near Gyeongpo, eaten plain or in a spicy stew.
- Seafood: raw fish, grilled fish and squid at Jumunjin and around the harbours.
- Coffee and bread: the city has a strong bakery and roastery culture to go with its cafés.
Day trip or overnight?
- Day trip: very doable. Take an early KTX, spend the day between Anmok, Gyeongpo and Ojukheon, and catch an evening train back.
- Overnight: worth it if you want the sunrise at Jeongdongjin or Gyeongpo, or want to add Sokcho and Seoraksan to the north. Summer weekends and the New Year sunrise are the busiest times, so book rooms early.
Timetables and access to coastal paths change, so confirm before you go. Tell us your favourite café on the east coast, or ask about planning your trip, in the comments.