How to make Korean pancakes (jeon): pajeon, kimchijeon, hobak-jeon and dipping sauce

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Jeon (전) is the Korean family of pan-fried pancakes and battered slices. They are the classic rainy-day food, the centrepiece of holiday tables at Chuseok and Seollal, and the natural partner for a bowl of makgeolli. They are also very easy to make well at home once you know the few tricks for crispness.

Two kinds of jeon

Pancake-style (buchimgae, 부침개): vegetables or kimchi mixed into a batter and fried as one big round. Pajeon and kimchijeon are this type.
Coated slices: pieces of courgette, fish, tofu or meat dipped in flour and egg and fried individually. Hobak-jeon is this type, and holiday platters are full of them.

The batter

For pancake-style jeon, the simplest batter is:

1 cup flour (plain flour, Korean pancake mix, or a mix of flour with a spoon or two of rice flour or potato starch for crunch)
about 1 cup very cold water
a pinch of salt

That gives a thin batter that just coats a spoon. Korean buchim garu (부침가루, pancake mix) is already seasoned and makes things easier. Twigim garu (frying mix) mixed in gives extra crispness.

How to get them crispy

Use ice-cold water, even with an ice cube in the bowl. Cold batter fries crisper.
Do not over-mix. Stir until just combined; a few lumps are fine.
Less batter, more filling. The batter should hold the vegetables together, not bury them.
Plenty of oil and a hot pan. More oil than seems reasonable, at medium-high heat. Jeon soaks up less oil when the pan is hot.
Spread thin. Press the pancake flat with the back of a spatula.
Flip once, when the edges are golden and crisp. Then add a little more oil around the edge.
Do not stack them hot; they steam and soften. Serve straight from the pan.

Pajeon (spring onion pancake)

A large bunch of spring onions, cut into lengths to fit the pan
Optional: squid, prawns or clams for haemul pajeon (seafood pajeon)
Batter as above

Lay the spring onions in the hot oiled pan in one layer, pour a thin layer of batter over them, add seafood on top, and drizzle a beaten egg over before flipping if you like.

Kimchijeon (kimchi pancake)

About 1 cup chopped, well-fermented (sour) kimchi plus a little kimchi juice
Optional: thinly sliced pork or onion
Use slightly less water, since the kimchi juice adds liquid

Old, sour kimchi works best here; it is the classic use for kimchi that has gone too far to eat plain.

Hobak-jeon (courgette slices)

Slice a courgette, ideally Korean aehobak, into rounds about half a centimetre thick.
Salt lightly for ten minutes and pat dry.
Dust each slice in flour, dip in beaten egg.
Fry on medium heat in a little oil until golden on both sides.

The same method works for firm tofu, thin slices of white fish (dongtae-jeon) and mushrooms.

Dipping sauce

Mix:

2 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp rice vinegar
1 tbsp water
optional: chilli flakes, sesame seeds, sliced spring onion or a little sugar

Vinegar is the key; it cuts through the oil.

Vegetarian and vegan versions

Pajeon, kimchijeon and vegetable jeon are easily vegetarian. Leave out the egg for vegan, adding a spoon more flour or starch.
Check the kimchi: most contains fish sauce or salted shrimp, but vegan kimchi is sold too.
Gamja-jeon, made from grated potato with a little salt and no flour, is naturally vegan and very crisp.
Mixed vegetable jeon (yachae-jeon) with carrot, onion, courgette and chilli uses up whatever is in the fridge.

Serving

Cut into squares or wedges with scissors, the Korean way, and serve with the dipping sauce and something to drink. Our guide to Korean drinking culture covers makgeolli and anju. What is your favourite filling? Share your own tips and versions in the comments.