How to saddle stitch leather by hand: two needles, irons and chisels

TUREFF• •0

Saddle stitching is the classic hand stitch of leatherwork. Each hole is passed through by two needles, one from each side, so each stitch is locked by two threads. If one thread is cut or wears through, the other still holds the seam, which is why it is used for wallets, belts and anything that takes strain.

What you need

Waxed thread, polyester or linen, in a thickness to suit the project.
Two blunt harness needles.
Stitching irons or chisels, or an awl.
A mallet and a poly board or rubber mat.
A wing divider or groover to mark the stitch line.
A stitching pony or clam to hold the work (helpful, not essential).

Pricking irons, stitching chisels and awls

These tools are often confused.

A pricking iron only marks where the holes go, with short teeth tapped lightly into the surface. You then open each hole with an awl. This is the traditional method and gives fine, neat holes, but it is slower and takes practice.
A stitching chisel has longer prongs that mark and punch through in one step. French-style chisels have flat prongs; diamond-style have a diamond cross-section with pointed tips, giving the slanted look of traditional stitching. This is what most beginners use.
An awl pierces one hole at a time. On very thick work, even a chisel may not go all the way through, and an awl finishes the job.

None is simply better; chisels are quicker to learn, while irons with an awl give finer results once mastered.

Marking and punching

Glue the layers together if you are joining two pieces, and let the glue set.
Use a wing divider to scribe a line a few millimetres in from the edge.
Place the chisel on the line and strike it straight down with the mallet. For the next set, put the first prong into the last hole you made so the spacing stays even.
Use a two-prong chisel around curves and corners.
Keep the work flat on the board, fingers away from the prongs, and strike squarely.

Preparing the thread

A common guide is to cut thread about three and a half to four times the length of the seam. Thread a needle onto each end. To lock the needle on, pierce the thread with the needle point a short way from the end, pull the tail back over the eye and down the thread, so it cannot slip off.

The stitch

Pass one needle through the first hole and even out the thread so both sides are the same length.
Take the needle on one side, say the back, through the second hole to the front.
Now take the front needle through the same second hole to the back. Pass it on the same side of the first thread each time, so the stitches slant consistently.
Pull both threads firmly and evenly.
Repeat for every hole, always in the same order: back needle first, then front, or the other way round. Consistency is what makes the slant look neat.

Some stitchers add a cross-over twist inside the hole to make the stitches slant more strongly. Try it once you are comfortable with the basic rhythm.

Starting and finishing

Starting at an edge: many people backstitch over the first hole or two, or loop the thread around the edge for strength where the seam takes strain, such as the top of a wallet pocket.
Finishing: at the end, backstitch two or three holes with both needles, going back over stitches already made. This locks the seam without a knot.
Trimming: cut the threads close to the leather. With polyester thread, the ends are often melted briefly with a lighter so they cannot fray. Keep the flame brief and away from the leather surface, dyes and solvents.

Common problems

Uneven tension: pull each stitch with the same force. Loose stitches look sloppy, overtight ones pucker thin leather.
Wandering line: mark a scribed line first and keep the chisel upright.
Thread fraying: use a shorter length and keep it well waxed.
Splitting the thread inside a hole: if a needle catches the thread already there, back it out and go again; it will not pull tight otherwise.

Post a photo of your first seam or ask about your stitch slant in the comments.