How to finish leather edges and dye leather: bevel, sand, burnish and seal

TUREFF• •0

Clean edges are what make handmade leather look professional rather than homemade. The process is not complicated, but it is done in a particular order, and doing it out of order is the most common reason edges come out rough. This guide covers vegetable-tanned leather, which is the kind that burnishes well.

The order of work

In general the order is:

Cut and glue the pieces.
Dye the leather if you are dyeing it.
Stitch.
Even up the edges, bevel, sand, dye the edge and burnish.
Apply a final finish.

Some makers dye after stitching, or burnish the inner edges before assembly where they will be hard to reach later. Work out where each edge will end up before you start.

Levelling the edge

When two layers are glued together, the edges rarely line up perfectly. Trim them flush with a sharp knife, or sand them level. Cut away from yourself with light passes, and keep the hand holding the work behind the blade.

Bevelling

An edge beveller takes the sharp corner off each side of the edge. Push it along at a steady angle with the leather held firmly on the table. Bevel both the grain side and the flesh side. Choose a beveller size to suit the thickness: too large and it takes off more than you want on thin leather. Bevelled edges round over more easily when burnished and are more comfortable to handle.

Sanding

Sand the edge with progressively finer grits, starting coarse to shape and finishing fine to smooth. Wrap the paper around a small block or use a sanding stick so the edge stays square rather than rounded unevenly. Aim for a smooth, slightly rounded profile with no loose fibres.

Dyeing the edge

If you want a coloured edge, apply edge dye or leather dye with a small dauber or cotton bud before burnishing. Work carefully so it does not spread on to the face of the leather. Let it dry fully.

Burnishing

Burnishing compresses and smooths the fibres by friction and heat until the edge is glossy.

Dampen the edge lightly with water, or apply a burnishing compound or gum. Many people use a bar of beeswax or a paraffin-based product.
Rub briskly with a wooden slicker, a burnishing wheel or a piece of canvas cloth.
Let it dry, sand lightly with fine paper if needed, and repeat.

Several light rounds give a better edge than one long, hard session. A wooden slicker fitted in a drill or rotary tool is quicker, but keep the speed modest and the work moving so it does not scorch.

Dyeing the face of the leather

Work in a well-ventilated area. Many leather dyes are solvent based. Wear gloves and protect the table.
Clean the leather of fingerprints and oils first. Test on a scrap of the same hide: colour varies from piece to piece.
Apply dye with a wool dauber or a soft cloth in light, overlapping circles. Thin coats avoid streaks and blotches. Several thin coats look better than one heavy one.
Let each coat dry completely. Buff off excess with a soft cloth so it does not rub on to clothing later.
Expect the colour to look lighter when dry and darker again once finished.

Oil can be applied before dye to help it go on evenly and to restore some suppleness. It also darkens the leather slightly on its own.

Sealing and finishing

A finish protects the dye and helps stop colour rubbing off. Options include:

Wax or balm finishes: easy, soft sheen, renew from time to time.
Acrylic finishes: more durable and water-resistant; apply in thin coats.
Oil alone: a natural look, with less protection against colour transfer.

Follow the instructions on whichever product you use and test it on scrap first.

Common edge problems

Fuzzy edges: not sanded enough, or burnished too dry. Sand finer and burnish damp.
Edges that go dark and blotchy: too much water or compound at once.
Dye running on to the face: use less on the dauber and tilt the work.
Gaps between layers: the glue did not cover right to the edge; trim and sand back.

What is your burnishing method? Share your tips, your before and after photos, or a stubborn edge problem in the comments.