Laying model railway track that runs well: types, points, joining and cleaning

Types of track

• Sectional track, often called set track, comes in fixed straights and curves that clip together. It is quick, forgiving and ideal for train sets and temporary layouts, but it restricts you to set geometries.
• Flexible track comes in long lengths that you bend to any curve and cut to size. It allows smoother, more realistic curves with fewer joints, but needs cutting and careful laying.
• Rail code describes the height of the rail in thousandths of an inch. In OO, code 100 is the common standard found in most starter sets; code 75 is a finer, more realistic rail. Older models with deep wheel flanges may bump along the sleeper fixings on finer rail, so check your stock before switching. Transition pieces exist for joining different codes.

Points

• Radius or size: the sharper the point, the more space it saves and the more likely long locomotives are to struggle. Choose gentler points where space allows.
• Frog type: the frog is where the rails cross. An insulated or dead frog is simpler to wire, while a live or electrified frog gives better electrical contact for short-wheelbase locomotives but needs insulated joiners and more careful wiring. Follow the manufacturer's wiring guide for the points you buy.

Joining track

1. Use rail joiners, also called fishplates. Slide them fully on so the rails meet squarely.
2. Cut rails cleanly with a fine razor saw or proper track cutters, then file off burrs so wheels do not catch.
3. Avoid joints on curves where you can. A joint in the middle of a curve tends to kink.
4. Stagger joints on flexible track so the two rails do not join at exactly the same point.
5. Check alignment by looking along the rail at eye level. Any kink shows up immediately.
6. Do not rely on joiners for power. Over time they loosen. Solder dropper wires to rails at regular intervals and feed them to the power bus beneath the baseboard.

Fixing track down

• Lay track on a level surface; a dip or hump causes uncoupling and derailments.
• Pin or glue track lightly; do not drive pins so hard that sleepers bend.
• Leave a small expansion gap in rooms with big temperature changes, such as sheds or lofts.
• Test run every section with your longest locomotive and coaches before ballasting, because changes are much harder afterwards.

Common problems and fixes

• Derailing at a joint: check for a step between rails or a misaligned joiner.
• Stalling on points: clean the point blades and check the frog wiring.
• Locomotives stopping in the same place: look for a loose joiner or a dirty spot.
• Wobbling on curves: the curve may be too tight for that locomotive, or the curve may have a kink.

Keeping track clean

• Use an abrasive track rubber sparingly; overuse scratches rails and makes them dirty faster.
• Many modellers wipe rails with a lint-free cloth and isopropyl alcohol instead.
• Clean locomotive wheels too, as dirty wheels transfer grime back to the rails.
• Keep the layout covered when not in use to reduce dust.
• Avoid oiling near the rails; oil spreads and collects dirt.