Starting plastic scale modelling: scales, kit types and the basic tools

TUREFF• •0

Plastic scale modelling covers aircraft, tanks, ships, cars, figures, spacecraft and more, built from kits and painted to whatever standard you like. The first kit can feel bewildering, with talk of scales, sprues and photo-etch. This guide covers the basics so you can choose a sensible first kit and the tools to build it.

What scale means

Scale is the ratio between the model and the real thing. At 1:72, one centimetre on the model represents 72 centimetres in reality. The bigger the second number, the smaller the model. Common scales by subject:

Aircraft: 1:72, 1:48 and 1:32 are widespread, with 1:144 for very small kits.
Military vehicles: 1:35 is the most common, with 1:72 and 1:48 also popular.
Cars: 1:24 and 1:25 are traditional, with 1:12 for large kits.
Ships: 1:350 and 1:700 are common because real ships are so large.
Figures: often given in millimetres of height as well as scale.

Pick a scale that suits the subject and your eyesight. A 1:72 fighter is small and fiddly; the same aircraft at 1:48 is easier to handle and detail.

Kit types

Injection-moulded polystyrene kits are the standard. Parts come attached to frames called sprues or runners, and are glued together.
Snap-fit kits need no glue, good for children and quick builds.
Resin kits and parts offer fine detail but are more demanding: they need superglue or epoxy rather than plastic cement, and resin dust from sanding should not be breathed in, so sand wet and wear a suitable dust mask.
Photo-etched metal parts provide very thin details such as seatbelts and grilles.
Multimedia kits combine several of these.

For a first kit, choose a modern injection-moulded kit with a modest part count, ideally from a recent tooling. Reviews often mention how well a kit fits, which matters far more for a beginner than detail.

Essential tools

You do not need a big outlay to start.

Sprue cutters: flat-sided cutters that snip parts off the runners cleanly. Better than twisting parts off.
A sharp hobby knife with spare blades. Replace blades often; a blunt blade slips and that is when cuts happen.
A self-healing cutting mat to protect the table and the blade.
Sanding sticks or fine abrasive paper in a few grades to clean up attachment points and seams.
Plastic cement for polystyrene, and a small bottle of superglue for other materials.
Tweezers for small parts.
Masking tape designed for modelling, which is thin and low-tack.
Good light, ideally a daylight-type lamp, and magnification if you need it.

Basic safety

Cut away from yourself and keep fingers behind the blade.
Ventilate while gluing and painting. Many cements and paints release solvent vapours.
Read the label and safety data sheet for every glue, paint and thinner you buy.
Keep tools and chemicals away from children and pets, and wash your hands before eating.

Reading the instructions

Kit instructions use symbols for things like optional parts, holes to drill, and parts not to use. Study the whole sheet before starting, and mark the steps where you will need to paint inside parts before they are closed up, such as cockpits and interiors.

A gentle first build

Wash the sprues in warm soapy water if the kit instructions or the plastic feel greasy, and let them dry.
Cut parts out as you need them, not all at once.
Test fit everything before applying glue.
Build in sub-assemblies, painting as you go where needed.
Accept that the first one will not be perfect. Every builder learns most from the first few kits.

What was your first model kit, and what would you tell a beginner? Share your experience or questions in the comments.