Weathering scale models: washes, dry brushing, chipping and pigments

TUREFF• •0

Real machines are dirty, faded, chipped and stained. Weathering adds that history to a clean model, and done with restraint it makes even a simple kit look convincing. This guide covers the four basic techniques and the safety points that come with the materials.

Start with references

Look at photographs of the real subject in use. A tank in a muddy field looks very different from a museum piece, and an airliner is far cleaner than a wartime fighter. Weathering looks best when it follows how real dirt and wear build up: around hatches, steps and handles, on lower surfaces, and where rain carries grime downward.

Prepare the surface

Most weathering goes on over a finished, decalled model sealed with a clear coat. A gloss coat before washes lets them flow into recesses rather than staining the whole surface. A matt coat at the end blends everything together. The clear coat also acts as a barrier between layers. A general rule is to use a weathering product whose solvent will not attack the paint beneath: for example, an oil or enamel wash over an acrylic coat. Test on a spare part first.

Washes

A wash is very thin paint that runs into panel lines, recesses and around details, adding depth.

Pin washes are applied with a fine brush to panel lines and details only.
Overall washes cover a larger area to tone down and dirty the whole surface.
Oil paints thinned with odourless white spirit are popular because they stay workable for a long time. Excess can be removed with a brush or cotton bud dampened in thinner.
Ready-made enamel and acrylic washes are also widely available.

Use dark brown or grey rather than pure black on most colours; black often looks too stark.

Dry brushing

Dry brushing picks out raised detail with a lighter colour.

Dip a flat, stiff brush in paint, then wipe almost all of it off on a paper towel.
Flick the brush lightly across raised detail. Paint catches only on the edges.
Build up gradually. Too much quickly looks chalky.

It suits engines, tracks, cockpits and textured surfaces such as cast armour.

Chipping

Chips show where paint has worn away from hard use.

Sponge chipping: dab a small piece of foam with a dark brown or metal colour on a paper towel, then lightly onto edges and walkways.
Fine brush chipping: paint tiny irregular chips with a small brush for full control.
Hairspray technique: spray a coat of hairspray or a dedicated chipping fluid over an undercoat, then the top colour. Wet the top colour with water and gently scrub with a brush or toothpick so it lifts in realistic patches.
Salt masking: scatter dampened salt over an undercoat, spray the top colour, then brush the salt away to reveal patches beneath.

Keep chipping where people step, load and touch things. Overdoing it is the most common mistake.

Pigments

Weathering pigments are fine coloured powders for dust, mud and rust.

Brush them on dry for a dusty look, or mix them with a fixer or thinner for mud.
Use a pigment fixer or thinner to lock them in place, as matt varnish can make them disappear.
Stipple heavy mud around wheels and tracks, lighter dust higher up.

Safety with weathering materials

Pigments are fine powders. Avoid creating clouds, do not blow on them, and do not breathe the dust. Read the safety data sheet, as some pigments contain substances that should not be inhaled or swallowed.
Oil and enamel washes involve solvents. Work with ventilation, keep lids on between uses, and read the product's safety data sheet.
Rags and tissues soaked in oil paint and solvent should not be balled up in a bin. Let them dry flat outdoors or put them in water in a sealed container before disposal, following local guidance.
Hairspray and aerosols are flammable. Use them away from flames and with ventilation.
Wash your hands before eating, and keep materials away from children and pets.

Less is more

Build up weathering in thin layers and stop earlier than you think. You can always add more, but removing weathering is much harder. What is your favourite weathering technique, and what went wrong the first time? Share your experience or questions in the comments.