Sewing for beginners: hand sewing kit, basic stitches and how to thread a needle

TUREFF• •0

Learning to sew by hand is worth doing even if you plan to buy a machine. It is how you sew on buttons, close a gap in a seam, finish a hem neatly and fix things on the go. You need very little to start, and three stitches cover most jobs.

A basic hand sewing kit

Needles: a mixed pack of hand sewing needles in different sizes. Finer needles for light fabrics, thicker ones for denim and canvas.
Thread: general-purpose polyester thread in white, black and a few colours you wear. Polyester is strong and has a little give.
Scissors: a pair kept only for fabric, plus small snips for thread. Cutting paper blunts fabric scissors quickly.
Pins and a pincushion.
A thimble: protects your finger when pushing the needle through thick fabric.
A tape measure.
A seam ripper: for unpicking mistakes, which everyone makes.
Tailor's chalk or a washable fabric pen for marking.
A needle threader: a small wire loop that makes threading much easier.

How to thread a needle

Cut the thread cleanly at an angle with sharp scissors. A frayed end will not go through.
Hold the needle up against a light background so you can see the eye.
Push the thread through the eye, or slide the needle onto the thread rather than the other way round.
If it will not go, use a needle threader: push the wire loop through the eye, put the thread through the loop, and pull it back.
Pull through enough thread to work with. A length from your fingertips to your elbow is a good guide; longer pieces tangle.

For most jobs use a single strand. For buttons and heavy repairs you can double it: pull the ends together and knot them.

Tying a knot at the end

Quick knot: wrap the thread end around your index finger once or twice, roll it off with your thumb, and pull the twist down into a knot.
Starting without a knot: take two or three tiny stitches on top of each other in a hidden spot. This is neater on fine fabrics.

Three stitches to learn first

Running stitch The simplest stitch: weave the needle in and out of the fabric in a straight line, making even stitches and gaps. It is quick and good for gathering, tacking (temporary stitching to hold layers) and light seams. It is not very strong on its own. Backstitch The strongest hand stitch, and the closest to machine stitching.

Bring the needle up through the fabric.
Take a stitch backwards, going down a short distance behind where you came up.
Bring the needle up the same distance in front of the first point.
Go back down into the end of the previous stitch.

The result is a continuous line on the front. Use it for mending seams and anything that takes strain. Slip stitch (ladder stitch) An almost invisible stitch for hems and closing gaps, such as the opening left when turning a cushion cover right side out.

Work along a folded edge.
Pick up a thread or two from one side, then slide the needle along inside the fold of the other side.
Pull gently, and the stitches disappear into the folds.

Finishing off

Take a small stitch on the back of the work, but do not pull it tight, leaving a loop.
Pass the needle through the loop and pull it snug to form a knot.
Repeat once for security and trim the thread.

Tips for neat stitching

Keep stitches small and even; consistency matters more than speed.
Do not pull the thread too tight, or the fabric will pucker.
If the thread twists, let the needle dangle so it can unwind.
Press seams with an iron as you go for a cleaner finish.
Practise on scraps of cotton before tackling a favourite garment.

What would you most like to be able to sew or fix? Ask questions or share your first project in the comments.