Sewing

How to use a sewing machine: threading, bobbin, tension and sewing a straight seam

TUREFF• •0
A sewing machine can feel intimidating the first time you sit down at one, but every machine works on the same principle: a top thread from the spool and a bottom thread from the bobbin lock together inside the fabric with every stitch. Once you understand the threading and the few main settings, the rest is practice. Always check your own machine's manual, because details vary.

Parts to know

  • Spool pin: holds the main thread.
  • Thread guides and take-up lever: lead the top thread down to the needle.
  • Tension dial: controls how tightly the top thread is held.
  • Presser foot: holds the fabric flat while sewing; lifted with a lever.
  • Feed dogs: the small teeth under the foot that move the fabric along.
  • Bobbin and bobbin case: hold the lower thread.
  • Handwheel: turns the needle up and down by hand. Always turn it towards you.
  • Stitch selector, length and width controls.
  • Reverse button or lever.

Winding the bobbin

  1. Put the spool on the spool pin and lead the thread around the bobbin-winding guide.
  2. Wind a few turns onto the empty bobbin by hand, then place it on the bobbin winder.
  3. Engage the winder (on many machines this disengages the needle).
  4. Press the pedal and let it wind evenly until full or until it stops.
  5. Cut the thread and disengage the winder.
Use the bobbins designed for your machine. Bobbins that look similar may not be the same size.

Threading the machine

  1. Raise the presser foot. This opens the tension discs so the thread seats properly. Threading with the foot down is one of the most common causes of a tangled mess.
  2. Raise the needle to its highest point by turning the handwheel towards you.
  3. Follow the numbered threading path: through the guides, down and around the tension area, up through the take-up lever, and down to the needle.
  4. Thread the needle, usually from front to back.
  5. Insert the bobbin as the manual shows, noting the direction it should turn.
  6. Bring up the bobbin thread: hold the top thread, turn the handwheel one full turn, and pull the loop of bobbin thread up through the needle plate.
  7. Pull both threads to the back under the presser foot.

Stitch length and tension

  • Stitch length is how long each stitch is. A medium length (often around 2.5 mm on machines marked in millimetres) suits most seams. Longer stitches are used for tacking and gathering, shorter ones for curves and strength.
  • Stitch width applies to zigzag and other side-to-side stitches.
  • Tension: a balanced stitch looks the same on both sides, with the threads meeting inside the fabric. If loops show on the underside, the top tension is usually too loose or the machine is mis-threaded; if the bobbin thread shows on top, the top tension is usually too tight. Re-threading fixes the problem surprisingly often, so try that before turning the dial.
Test on a scrap of the same fabric, folded double, before every project.

Choose the right needle

Needles come in sizes and types. A universal needle suits most woven fabrics; a ballpoint (jersey) needle, whose rounded tip slips between the loops rather than piercing them, is the usual choice for knits. Heavier fabrics need a thicker needle. A dull or bent needle causes skipped stitches and snags, so change it regularly.

Seam allowance

The seam allowance is the distance between the stitching line and the edge of the fabric. Many commercial patterns use 1.5 cm (5/8 inch), but some use less, especially for knits, so always check the pattern. Most machines have guide lines on the needle plate; line the fabric edge up with the right one and watch the edge, not the needle, as you sew.

Sewing a straight seam

  1. Pin the two pieces right sides together, with pins at right angles to the edge.
  2. Place the fabric under the foot with the edge on the seam guide, and lower the foot.
  3. Sew a few stitches forward, then reverse a few to secure the start (backtacking).
  4. Sew forward at a steady, comfortable speed. Guide the fabric gently; do not push or pull it, as the feed dogs do the moving.
  5. Remove pins before the needle reaches them.
  6. Backtack at the end, raise the needle and foot, pull the fabric away and trim the threads.
  7. Press the seam flat, then open, with an iron.

Turning a corner

Stop with the needle down in the fabric, raise the foot, pivot the fabric, lower the foot and carry on.

Practice exercises

  • Sew straight lines on lined paper with no thread to build control.
  • Sew rows on scrap fabric at different seam allowances.
  • Make a simple cushion cover or tote bag as a first project.
What has your machine been doing that puzzles you? Describe it in the comments and others can help troubleshoot.

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