Easy clothing repairs: sew a button, fix a hem, mend a seam and darn a hole

TUREFF• •0

Most clothes are thrown away for small problems: a lost button, a dropped hem, a split seam, a hole at the elbow. All of them can be fixed by hand with a basic kit in less time than it takes to go shopping. Here is how to do the five most common repairs.

What you need

Hand sewing needles, including a darning needle for wool.
Thread matched to the garment's colour (when unsure, choose slightly darker).
Scissors, pins and a seam ripper.
For darning, wool or cotton yarn similar to the garment, and something round to stretch the fabric over (a darning mushroom, a light bulb shape, or even an orange).

1. Sewing on a button

Thread a needle with a doubled thread and knot the ends.
Mark where the button goes; the old holes or threads usually show you.
Come up from the back of the fabric and stitch through the button holes several times.
To leave room for the fabric of the buttonhole, place a pin or matchstick across the top of the button while you stitch, which keeps the stitching loose.
Remove the pin, pull the button up, and wrap the thread around the stitches under the button several times to form a "shank".
Push the needle to the back and finish with a few small stitches and a knot.

For four-hole buttons, sew in parallel lines or a cross to match the other buttons on the garment.

2. Fixing a hem

Unpick any loose stitching and press the hem back into its fold.
Pin it in place.
Use a slip stitch or blind hem stitch: pick up just one or two threads from the outer fabric, then take a slightly longer stitch inside the fold of the hem.
Keep stitches loose so they do not show as dimples on the outside.
Press when done.

For a quick temporary fix, iron-on hemming tape works on many fabrics, though it may not survive many washes.

3. Mending a split seam

A seam that has come undone (rather than torn fabric) is the easiest repair of all.

Turn the garment inside out.
Pin the seam back together along the original stitching line.
Start a little before the gap, in the stitching that is still sound.
Sew with a backstitch along the old line, finishing a little past the gap.
Knot securely and press.

On stretchy fabrics, keep the stitches slightly loose, or use a machine with a stretch or narrow zigzag stitch, so the seam does not snap when worn.

4. Darning a hole

Darning weaves new threads across a hole, rebuilding the fabric. It is ideal for socks and knitwear.

Stretch the area over a darning mushroom or similar, without distorting it.
Using yarn and a darning needle, sew running stitches in a ring around the hole, in sound fabric, to stabilise it.
Lay parallel threads across the hole in one direction, anchoring them in the good fabric on each side.
Weave threads at right angles, over and under the first set, like a small piece of cloth.
Weave the ends in on the back.

Darn early: a thin patch is far easier to reinforce than a large hole.

5. Patching

Patches suit jeans, workwear and holes too big to darn.

Inside patch: place a piece of similar fabric behind the hole and stitch around the edges of the hole by hand or machine. Neat and fairly discreet.
Outside patch: place a contrasting or decorative patch on top and stitch around it. Visible mending has become popular in its own right.
Iron-on patches: quick and useful for children's clothes, though stitching around the edge makes them last much longer.

Cut patches with rounded corners so they do not lift, and allow a generous margin of sound fabric around the hole.

Tips for repairs that last

Fix things as soon as you notice them; damage spreads.
Wash the garment before repairing, so dirt does not get sewn in.
Match the weight of the repair fabric to the garment; heavy patches on light fabric can pull.
Keep the spare buttons and thread that come with new clothes.

What is the repair you keep putting off, or a mend you are proud of? Share it in the comments below.