Violin care: humidity, changing strings, checking the bridge and cleaning

TUREFF• •0

A violin is a wooden box under constant string tension. Looked after, it can last for generations; neglected, it develops cracks, open seams and warped parts. Most care is simple and takes a minute after each practice.

Humidity and temperature

Wood swells when the air is damp and shrinks when it is dry. The biggest danger is rapid change: a sudden drop in humidity, such as the first weeks of central heating in winter, is when cracks and open seams tend to appear.

Keep the humidity steady. Advice on the ideal level varies between luthiers, but most aim for a moderate, stable middle range rather than very dry or very damp air. A simple hygrometer in the case or room tells you where you stand.
In dry seasons, a case humidifier or room humidifier helps. Follow the instructions carefully; a dripping or overfilled humidifier can do damage of its own.
Avoid heat: never leave a violin in a car, near a radiator or heater, or in direct sunlight.
Let it acclimatise: after coming in from the cold, leave the violin in its closed case for a while before opening it, so it warms up gradually.

Signs something has shifted

Open seams: a buzz, or a gap where the top or back meets the sides. Seams are glued with a weak glue on purpose so they open before the wood cracks. A luthier can reglue them; never use household glue.
Cracks: get any crack looked at promptly, before it spreads or gathers dirt.
Sinking or rising string height: can be a sign of seasonal movement in the wood.

Checking the bridge

The bridge is held in place only by string pressure. Tuning gradually pulls its top towards the fingerboard.

Look at it from the side every week or so. It should stand roughly upright, with its feet flat on the top.
If it leans, a teacher or luthier can show you how to ease it upright; it is delicate work and best learnt from someone who can demonstrate.
If it is warped (curved when seen from the side), take it to a luthier. A slightly warped bridge can sometimes be straightened; a badly warped one needs replacing.
Never take all the strings off at once. The bridge and the soundpost inside the violin are held by string tension; if it is released completely the soundpost can fall, and that needs a luthier to reset.

When to change strings

There is no fixed schedule. It depends on how much you play, the string type, your climate and your skin. Common signs that strings need replacing:

the tone has become dull or lifeless
the strings will not stay in tune, or notes sound false and wobbly even when tuned
the winding is fraying, unravelling or discoloured
the E string has started to whistle or sound harsh

Players who practise daily tend to change strings more often than occasional players. Change one string at a time so the bridge stays in place, and check the bridge's angle afterwards. If you are unsure, ask a teacher or string shop to show you the first time.

Cleaning

After every session, wipe rosin dust from the strings, fingerboard and top with a soft, dry, lint-free cloth. Keep a separate cloth for the strings if you like.
Do not use household polish, alcohol or cleaning sprays. They can damage varnish. If the varnish needs more than a dry wipe, ask a luthier what is suitable for your instrument.
Wash your hands before playing; it keeps strings and fingerboard cleaner.

Storage and handling

Keep the violin in its case when you are not playing, with the case closed and latched.
Loosen the bow hair every time you put it away.
Pick the violin up by the neck or the edges, not by the bridge, strings or f-holes.
Do not store heavy items in the case where they can press on the bridge.

A regular check-up

A luthier can check the bridge, soundpost, seams, pegs and fingerboard. Many players have this done once or twice a year, or at the change of seasons. How do you keep your violin happy through dry winters or humid summers? Share your routine or ask questions in the comments.