Bringing home your first cat: supplies, the first week and the first vet visit
TUREFF• •0
Getting your first cat is exciting, but the first few days shape how quickly a cat settles. Cats are territorial animals that feel safest when their surroundings are predictable, so a calm, well-prepared start matters more than any expensive gadget. This guide covers what to buy, how to handle the first week and what to expect at the vet.
Supplies to have ready before the cat arrives
- A sturdy carrier. A top-opening or easily dismantled carrier makes vet visits far less stressful than trying to pull a cat out of a small door.
- Litter trays and litter. Welfare charities recommend one tray per cat plus one extra, placed in quiet spots away from food and water. Ask the shelter or breeder which litter the cat is used to and start with that.
- Food and water bowls. Shallow, wide bowls suit most cats. Keep water away from the food bowl, as many cats prefer to drink away from where they eat.
- The same food the cat already eats. Change diet gradually later, not on day one.
- Hiding places. A cardboard box on its side or a covered bed gives a nervous cat somewhere to retreat.
- A scratching post tall and stable enough for a full stretch.
- A few toys, such as a wand toy for supervised play and small balls or toy mice.
- A high resting place, like a cleared shelf or a cat tree, because cats feel secure when they can watch from above.
Prepare a safe room
Set up one quiet room as a base for the first days, with litter, food, water, a bed, a hiding place and a scratching post all in it, but spaced apart. Check the house for hazards before the cat explores more widely:
- Remove lilies entirely. Every part of the plant, including pollen and vase water, can cause fatal kidney failure in cats.
- Secure windows and balconies, and check behind appliances for gaps a cat could squeeze into.
- Put away cords, hair ties, string and thread, which can be swallowed.
- Store cleaning products and medicines out of reach.
The first week
- Let the cat come out in its own time. Open the carrier in the safe room and leave it alone. Hiding for a day or more is normal.
- Sit quietly in the room and let the cat approach you. Offer a hand to sniff rather than reaching to stroke.
- Keep visitors and noise to a minimum. Introductions to children, other pets and guests can come once the cat is eating, using the tray and exploring confidently.
- Open up the rest of the home gradually, one room at a time, leaving the base room available as a retreat.
- Keep a cat that will go outdoors inside for several weeks so it learns that this is home before it ever goes out.
Watch eating, drinking and toilet habits closely. A cat that has not eaten for more than a day or so, or is straining in the tray, needs to see a vet promptly rather than being given more time to settle.
The first vet visit
Register with a vet before or as soon as you bring the cat home, and book a health check within the first week or two. At that visit the vet will typically:
- Examine the cat and record a starting weight.
- Check vaccination status and plan any boosters or a primary course.
- Discuss flea and worm treatment. Only use products made for cats. Some dog flea treatments contain permethrin, which is highly toxic to cats.
- Talk about neutering if it has not been done, and the right timing for your cat.
- Scan for a microchip and confirm the registered details are yours. Microchipping is a legal requirement for pet cats in England and is strongly recommended everywhere, so check the rules where you live.
Bring any paperwork from the shelter or breeder, and ask about pet insurance or a preventive care plan before you need one.
Building the relationship
Short daily play sessions, a predictable routine and letting the cat choose when to be touched build trust faster than anything else. Some cats are lap cats within days, while others take months. Both are normal.
Just welcomed your first cat? Share what helped them settle, or ask your questions, in the comments.