What to feed a dog: complete food, portions, treats and foods that are toxic
TUREFF• •0
Dog food aisles are confusing, but the decisions underneath are fairly simple: feed a food that is nutritionally complete for your dog's life stage, in the right amount for your dog rather than for the label's average dog, keep treats modest, and keep a short list of dangerous human foods well out of reach.
Complete versus complementary food
Look for the word on the label, because it matters more than the marketing.
- Complete food is formulated to provide all the nutrients a dog needs, so it can be fed on its own every day (with water). In the UK and EU this is the legal term; in the US the equivalent is a statement that the food is "complete and balanced" under AAFCO standards.
- Complementary food (in the US, labelled for "intermittent or supplemental feeding") is not enough on its own: mixers, toppers, many treats and some wet foods fall here. These are fine as extras but should not make up the main diet.
Wet, dry or a mix can all be perfectly good if the food is complete. Choose what suits your dog, your budget and your routine.
Life stages
Labels say which life stage a complete food is formulated for.
- Puppies need food for growth. Large and giant breeds often need a diet formulated specifically for large-breed growth, because too much energy or calcium can affect bone development. Ask your vet which is right.
- Adults need a maintenance food.
- Senior dogs have no single legal definition of their own, so "senior" foods vary. Some older dogs need fewer calories; others struggle to keep weight on. Base choices on your dog's condition and your vet's advice.
- A food labelled for all life stages must meet the requirements for growth, so it may be richer than a sedentary adult needs.
Switch foods gradually over about a week, mixing increasing amounts of the new food into the old, to reduce the chance of an upset stomach.
How much to feed
The feeding guide on the packet is a starting point based on weight. Real needs vary with age, breed, activity, neutering status and even the weather.
- Weigh food rather than guessing with a cup; scoops vary a great deal.
- Learn to body condition score: you should be able to feel the ribs easily without pressing hard and see a waist from above. Your vet can show you.
- Weigh your dog regularly and adjust portions if they gain or lose.
- Puppies usually eat several smaller meals a day; most adults do well on two.
Treats
Treats count. A common rule of thumb from vets is to keep treats to around 10 per cent of daily calories, and to reduce meals a little on heavy training days. Small pieces of their own kibble, or plain cooked chicken or carrot, work for many dogs. Cooked bones can splinter and should not be given.
Foods that are toxic to dogs
Keep these away from dogs entirely:
- Chocolate, especially dark and baking chocolate
- Grapes, raisins, currants and sultanas, including in cakes and hot cross buns; there is no known safe amount
- Xylitol (also called birch sugar), a sweetener found in some sugar-free gum, sweets, peanut butters and toothpastes
- Onions, garlic, leeks and chives, whether raw, cooked or powdered
- Macadamia nuts
- Alcohol, caffeine and raw yeast dough
If your dog eats something on this list, contact a vet or a pet poison helpline straight away, even if they seem fine; symptoms can be delayed. Do not make them vomit unless a professional tells you to.
When to ask a vet
Ask about home-cooked or raw diets before you start, because they are easy to get unbalanced, and about any dog with a health condition, allergies, sudden weight change or a change in appetite or thirst. Diet advice from a vet beats advice from any packet, including this article.
What do you feed your dog, and how did you decide? Share your questions and experiences in the comments.