Light for houseplants explained: bright indirect, low light, windows and grow lights

TUREFF• •0
Light is the food of a houseplant. Watering and feeding get the attention, but a plant in the wrong light will struggle however carefully you look after it. The tricky part is that our eyes adjust so well that a room can feel bright to us while being dim to a plant.

What the labels mean

  • Direct light: the sun shines straight onto the leaves, usually on a sunny windowsill. Cacti, many succulents, citrus and some flowering plants enjoy it; many tropical foliage plants scorch in strong afternoon sun.
  • Bright indirect light: a bright spot where the sun does not hit the leaves directly, or only gently in the early morning. Near a sunny window but out of the beam, or behind a sheer curtain. This is what most popular tropical houseplants want.
  • Medium light: further into a bright room, or close to a window that gets no direct sun.
  • Low light: several metres from a window or in a room with small or shaded windows. Some plants tolerate this, but very few thrive in it. "Low light tolerant" means a plant survives and grows slowly, not that it will grow anywhere.
A rough test: hold your hand about 30 centimetres above where a plant would sit. A crisp, sharp shadow means direct light; a soft but clear shadow means bright indirect; a faint, fuzzy shadow means low light.

Window directions

Which way a window faces makes a big difference. In the northern hemisphere:
  • South-facing windows get the most sun through the day: good for sun-lovers, but often too strong for leafy plants right on the sill.
  • East-facing windows get gentle morning sun, which suits many houseplants.
  • West-facing windows get hotter afternoon sun.
  • North-facing windows get no direct sun and steady, softer light.
In the southern hemisphere it is the other way round: north-facing windows are the sunniest and south-facing ones get no direct sun. East and west behave much the same in both. Other factors matter as much: trees, buildings opposite, balconies above, net curtains and dirty glass all cut light. Light also drops off quickly with distance, so a plant a couple of metres back from a window gets far less than one on the sill.

Seasons

In winter the sun is lower and days are shorter, so light is weaker and comes further into the room. A spot that was too strong in summer can be just right in winter, and a dim spot can become too dark. Many people move plants closer to windows for the darker months, keeping them off cold glass.

Signs a plant wants more light

  • Long, stretched stems with big gaps between leaves, leaning hard towards the window
  • Small new leaves, or variegated leaves turning plain green
  • No flowers on a plant that should flower
  • Compost staying wet for a long time, since a plant in poor light uses little water

Signs of too much

  • Bleached, pale or yellowing patches on leaves facing the window
  • Brown, crispy scorch marks
  • Leaves curling or drooping in the hottest part of the day
Move plants gradually when changing their light. A plant shifted from a dim corner to full sun can scorch even if it is a sun-lover.

Grow lights in general

If your home is dark, LED grow lights can make up the difference. A few general points:
  • Full-spectrum white LEDs look natural in a living room and work well for houseplants.
  • Distance matters: light weakens quickly, so follow the maker's guidance on height and move the lamp closer for sun-lovers.
  • Plants need darkness too. A timer that gives a consistent daily period of light, rather than leaving it on around the clock, keeps things simple.
  • Ordinary household bulbs help a little, but are generally much weaker for plants than a light designed for growing.
Rotate pots a quarter turn every week or two so plants grow evenly instead of leaning. Which way do your windows face, and what grows best in them? Ask about a tricky spot or share what works in the comments.

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