Bali for first-timers: where to stay, getting around, temples and the tourist levy

TUREFF• •0

Bali can be whatever you want it to be: surf and beach clubs, rice terraces and yoga, quiet villages, diving, or temple ceremonies. The trick for a first visit is choosing the right area, because getting around the island takes longer than the map suggests.

Entry and the tourist levy

Visa: many nationalities can get a visa on arrival or an electronic visa on arrival (e-VOA) applied for online beforehand; some are visa-exempt and some need a visa in advance. Check Indonesia's official immigration site for your passport, and apply only through official portals.
Arrival card: Indonesia uses an online arrival declaration, the All Indonesia card, which produces a QR code to show on arrival. Complete it on the official site shortly before travel.
Bali tourist levy: foreign visitors to Bali pay a one-off levy per person per visit, of IDR 150,000 at the time of writing. Pay it online through the official Love Bali website or app before you fly (it can also be paid on arrival), and keep the voucher. It is separate from any visa fee.

All three have changed in recent years, so check the official sources close to your travel date.

Where to stay

Seminyak and Canggu: cafés, beach clubs, shopping and surf. Busy and lively; Canggu's traffic can be severe.
Ubud: in the hills, for rice terraces, temples, yoga, art and food. Not a beach town.
Uluwatu and the Bukit peninsula: clifftop views, surf breaks, sunsets and the cliff temple.
Sanur and Nusa Dua: calmer, good for families, gentle beaches.
Amed and the north: quiet, with snorkelling and diving.
Nusa Penida and Nusa Lembongan: islands off the coast with dramatic cliffs and manta rays; reached by fast boat.

For a first trip of a week or ten days, two bases works well: Ubud for culture and a coastal area for the sea.

Getting around

Traffic is heavy, especially around Canggu, Seminyak and the airport. Allow far more time than the distance suggests.
A car with a driver for the day is the easiest way to see several sights; agree the plan and price beforehand.
Ride-hailing apps offer cars and motorbike taxis in most tourist areas, though some places restrict pick-ups.
Renting a scooter is common but risky. You need the correct licence, including an international driving permit with motorcycle entitlement; police do check, and insurers often refuse claims for unlicensed riders. Always wear a helmet.
Fast boats to the Nusa islands and Gili islands: choose operators with good safety reviews and life jackets, and avoid overloaded boats.

Temple etiquette

Bali is mostly Hindu, and temples are active places of worship.

Wear a sarong and sash in temples; many lend or rent them at the entrance.
Cover shoulders and knees.
Do not climb on shrines or walls, and do not stand higher than a priest or point your feet at shrines.
Women who are menstruating are traditionally asked not to enter temples.
Step around the small canang sari offerings on the pavement, never on them.
Ceremonies can close roads or temples; they take priority. Watch respectfully from the side.
Nyepi, the Day of Silence, usually falls in March: the whole island, including the airport, shuts down for a day and visitors must stay in their accommodation.

Safety and health

"Bali belly": drink bottled or filtered water, and be cautious with ice and salads in cheaper places.
Methanol poisoning has been linked to illicit or counterfeit spirits. Stick to sealed, branded bottles or beer and wine from reputable venues.
Monkeys at places such as Uluwatu and the Ubud Monkey Forest snatch glasses, phones and food; secure them.
Rip currents on surf beaches are strong. Swim between the flags.
Drugs: Indonesian penalties are extremely severe.
Ask a travel clinic about vaccinations and rabies advice well before you go.

Behaviour rules

Bali has published guidance for visitors, asking them to dress appropriately away from the beach, respect sacred sites, not misbehave in public, and use only licensed businesses. Recent years have seen tourists deported for disrespect at sacred sites. Been to Bali, or planning your first trip? Ask about areas, transport or temples in the comments, and share what you learned.